Lens and Shutter Cameras Blog

Epic 4 day sales event, Canon: Lens and Shutter

2012-02-23T12:58:00.002-08:00

Check it out. Sale ends February 26th, 2012

4 Day Sales Event: Lens and Shutter

2012-02-17T10:50:00.000-08:00

Our latest 4 day event is on now, check Lens and Shutter website for the hot deals, whilst stock lasts.

Sale ends February 19th, 2011.

Waynes Tips #8, PSAM!: Lens and Shutter Cameras

2012-02-13T13:59:00.000-08:00

#8-PSAM!

No, this is not a word that unleashes your superpowers. However, understanding what it does mean could make you a super-photographer able to leap photo problems in a single bound.(If your camera lacks these functions you may want to skip this column. If, however, you want to plan for the future, please stay tuned.)

125 at f8??

To truly understand PSAM we first need to talk about the two primary functions on any camera, digital or otherwise. These are the shutter and the aperture.

First of all let's talk about the shutter. This is the device which opens and closes and exposes the sensor in the camera to light. The duration of this function is called, appropriately enough, the shutter speed.

You will often hear more advanced photographers throw about terms like, "I shot this one at 125 at f8." The first number is the shutter speed. What the person is really saying is that he or she took the picture at 1/125th of a second. A very brief period of time to us but in camera terms a fairly average one.

Shutter speeds on a typical camera may be as short as 1/1000 of a second. Some go even higher than that. On the other end the speeds may be as long as 4 seconds or more. On some cameras you can also set them to "B" which allows you to take an exposure minutes or even hours long. The instruction manual will tell you the shutter speed range of your camera

Secondly let's consider the aperture. That is the second number in the subtitle of this section. The aperture on your camera is analogous to the iris in your eye. Your iris opens and contracts according to light levels. The aperture in your camera responds in a similar fashion. In camera terminology it is, in fact, often called the iris .

The measurement of this opening is expressed as the f-stop. This number, like the shutter speed, is a constant. That is, f8 always lets a specific amount of light through it regardless of the camera or lens being used.

How is the number arrived at? The best way to understand this number is to remember it is a fraction or factor. We divide the focal length(discussed in column #6) of the lens by the physical size of the aperture to give us the f-stop. For example my camera has an 8mm lens at the wide angle setting. At f4 the size of the opening in the lens is 8/2mm=f4. Another way to state this is that 8mm/4=2mm size opening. At f8 the opening would be by this formula 1mm across. So we can see that a bigger f-stop number means a smaller opening. Remember again we are talking fractions. With that in mind it is clear that 1/4(f4) is a bigger opening than 1/8(f8).

What Do They Do?

Now that we understand what they are, we now need to know what they can do for our pictures.

In the simplest sense the shutter speed controls the duration of the light and the aperture the quantity of the light. Therefore these functions control the exposure.

However they do much more than just that. These two functions also have a strong impact on the look of your photo.

The shutter speed dictates how sharp or unsharp your moving subject will be. Use a fast shutter speed like 1/500 or 1/1000 to stop the motion of a rapidly moving subject. Use a slow speed like 1/15 or 1/30 and even someone walking will show some blur in the arms and legs.

The f-stop size controls how much of your scene from near to far will be in focus. When you focus on a point, there will be an area both behind and in front of that point that looks acceptably sharp to your eye. This is called depth-of-field. Wide apertures like f2.0 or f2.8 have less depth-of-field than do smaller apertures like f8 or f11.

With these thoughts in mind we can now see how we can affect the way our photos look by controlling these two settings.

This is where PSAM comes into play. The letters in order stand for:P=Program/S=Shutter Priority/A=Aperture Priority/M=Manual Exposure. The order on your camera may be different. Some cameras, notably Canon use TV(Time Value)=Shutter priority and AV(Aperture Value)=Aperture priority. Let's discuss them in order.

Program Exposure

Program mode means that the camera selects both the shutter speed based on a designed program. This is the mode that you are likely using on your camera even if you were not aware of it. This setting can be designated by the letter P, a green rectangle, or sometimes a happy face. It is the simplest setting and works really well when you are not concerned about a specific shutter speed or aperture value. On some cameras you can override the camera's choice of shutter speed and aperture in order to obtain the effect you want. For real creativity however, I recommend the following modes.

Aperture Priority

Aperture priority is the mode to use when you are primarily concerned about depth-of-field. Here give the the aperture or f-stop priority by choosing it. The camera then adjusts the shutter speed to give you the correct exposure.

A good place to use this mode is when shooting scenery. When you have objects both near and far that you want sharp, use a small f-stop like f8 or f11. This will create the maximum amount of depth-of-field. This would also be an excellent way to photograph flowers or other small objects.

Be careful though! Make sure you watch what shutter speed the camera chooses. If it is too slow to handhold you will likely have camera shake.

For portraits on the other hand, you may want to select a larger aperture like f2 or f2.8. Your lens may not open this wide, so just remember the lowest number is the widest aperture. What this will do for you is keep the background as much out of focus as possible. This helps to isolate your subject from a busy background.

The danger here is that you may overexpose your shots in bright light if the camera does not have a shutter speed fast enough for the aperture choice you have made. The camera will usually warn you of this problem by blinking the shutter speed number or changing it's colour.

Shutter Priority

Shutter priority, as you have probably guessed, means you choose the shutter speed and the camera chooses the aperture. This is the mode to use when you are looking for a specific shutter speed effect in you shots.

When shooting action shots you may want to accomplish two different things. Perhaps you want to freeze the action of someone as they jump into the water. With a fast enough speed the impact on the water may appear to be frozen with even the drops of water discernible. Try a high speed next time your are shooting action and you may be surprised at what you see. Remember you might be seeing a slice in time that is only 1/1000 of a second or less.

You may, however, want to convey a sense of motion in a moving subject. Use a slower speed for this.

A good example of this is photographing cars at night as they travel city streets. Using a slow speed like 4 to 16 seconds with the camera on a tripod results in trails of light from the headlights and taillights.

Another good technique is to set you speed at 1/15 or 1/30 when photographing someone running. Frame the subject and then move the camera at the same speed to maintain the same composition. As you do so take the picture and keep the camera moving. This is called panning and results in the subject being relatively sharp with the background blurred by the motion of the camera. Often you can also see motion in the arms and legs of your subject. Of course this works with many other action subjects as well.

Again, be aware of exposure limitations. If you select too fast or too slow a speed for the current light conditions the camera will warn you. Usually the aperture number will blink or change colour, warning you of an incorrect exposure. Your manual will tell how your camera shows this information.

Manual Exposure

Manual mode is the ultimate control mode. Here you control both the shutter speed and aperture. Because of this you can control both exposure and the effects produced by these two functions.

The camera will usually indicate what it thinks is the best exposure. However when using this mode you can make whatever choice you feel will give you the result you want. So for very difficult lighting situations or simply to give an effect you want, manual may be the way to go.

A good example of how manual can work well for you would be this situation. Let's say you are taking a series of pictures of a person moving through a scene. The light on the person is constant but the background changes considerably in different areas. On any auto exposure mode the camera will change it's settings because of this variability. The result is that the exposure of the person will also vary from shot to shot. If you set the proper exposure manually of course it will not change as you continue to shoot.

One thing to be careful about is this problem. The zoom lenses on most cameras have a variable aperture size. That is as you zoom it back and forth the light being gathered changes. So if you are on manual exposure you will need to adjust your settings if you zoom the lens any significant amount.

If your camera has these modes, give them a try. Controlling these functions can often make the difference between a good and a great photo. As I have said many times before it costs nothing to experiment with digital. So play with the controls and see what happens. I am sure you will notice a noticeable improvement in many of your shots.

(One thing in conclusion. Information such as shutter speed and aperture is stored in in what is known as an EXIF file. On many viewing and editing programs you can view this info. This enables you to see what worked or didn't work for a particular shot. Check your software manual or help files to see how you can do this.)

Next time I will talk about different types of digital cameras and their pros and cons.

New equipment, February 2012: Lens and Shutter

2012-02-09T14:36:00.000-08:00

This month we have seen a whole host of new cameras coming to the market. Its been quite the rush, for a camera enthusiast!
Check out a few of the new Models which seem to be making quite the splash.
Olympus OM-D ( micro four thirds mount)

Nikon D800 and D800E DSLR,

Fuji X-pro 1 ( mirrorless),

Canon Powershot G1X ( advanced compact).

All of these models look to be game changers for the manufactures whom have created them...
Many other models have been announced but I find too many to list, lets hope I get to play with some soon!

Firmware Update Fuji Finepix X10, v1.03:Lens and Shutter

2012-02-09T14:22:00.000-08:00

Fuji Canada have just released an update for the Amazing Fuji X10

the fixes are as follows:
The firmware update Ver.1.03 incorporates the following issues:

1.New function for "RAW" button can be applied by customer's preference
By holding down RAW button for approx. 2 seconds or more, RAW button can be applied into new function similar to "Fn" button setting.

2.Each value set on ISO sensitivity and Dynamic range can be maintained even if aperture setting mode (P / A / S / M) is changed.

3.Face detection function is upgraded to keep tracking face by means of face-tracking AF function. As this function is activated even in movie recording mode, AF on detected face in the movie becomes more effective.

4.Blooming (White disk) phenomena, which can be observed in EXR AUTO mode, is reduced.

5.Compatibility on Mac OS 10.7
When the camera is connected to Mac PC on Mac OS 10.7, the camera is effectively recognized. Additionally, compatibility on RAW FILE CONVERTER EX with Mac OS 10.7 has been confirmed.

6.AF confirmation sound was controlled on "SHUTTER VOLUME" in the SET-UP menu. By this update, this sound is controlled on "OPERATION VOL." in the SET-UP menu, just similar to another functions.

7.The image area with high brightness might be recorded as "black-out" area, just in case of dedicated shooting condition, This unpleasant phenomenon is improved.

8.When the flash is used under macro shooting condition, light-reflected area was shown in greenish. This unpleasant phenomenon is improved.

The firmware (Ver.1.00-Ver.1.01 to Ver.1.02) update incorporates the following issues.

1.Just in the following camera procedure, aperture value was incorrectly displayed as "F2.2" even if actual value was set to "F2.0". This phenomenon is improved.
(1) Mode dial is set to [A] or [M]
(2) Aperture is set to F2.0 (open aperture).
(3) Zoom lens position is moved from wide edge to telephoto edge, and finally to wide edge, again.

2.In the TRACKING mode, the AF hunting occurs, which you can see coming in focus and out of focus continuously in the LCD monitor. This occurs in the two cases below.

(1) Turn on the camera to select "TRACKING" in AF mode(shooting menu) and change to shooting mode by half-pressing the shutter button.
(If changing to shooting mode by pressing "DISP/BACK" button, this cannot occur.)
(2) Turn off and on the camera while "TRACKING" mode.
(If turning on and off after changing to EXR mode, this cannot occur.)The firmware update Ver.1.03 incorporates the following issues:

1.New function for "RAW" button can be applied by customer's preference
By holding down RAW button for approx. 2 seconds or more, RAW button can be applied into new function similar to "Fn" button setting.

2.Each value set on ISO sensitivity and Dynamic range can be maintained even if aperture setting mode (P / A / S / M) is changed.

3.Face detection function is upgraded to keep tracking face by means of face-tracking AF function. As this function is activated even in movie recording mode, AF on detected face in the movie becomes more effective.

4.Blooming (White disk) phenomena, which can be observed in EXR AUTO mode, is reduced.

5.Compatibility on Mac OS 10.7
When the camera is connected to Mac PC on Mac OS 10.7, the camera is effectively recognized. Additionally, compatibility on RAW FILE CONVERTER EX with Mac OS 10.7 has been confirmed.

6.AF confirmation sound was controlled on "SHUTTER VOLUME" in the SET-UP menu. By this update, this sound is controlled on "OPERATION VOL." in the SET-UP menu, just similar to another functions.

7.The image area with high brightness might be recorded as "black-out" area, just in case of dedicated shooting condition, This unpleasant phenomenon is improved.

8.When the flash is used under macro shooting condition, light-reflected area was shown in greenish. This unpleasant phenomenon is improved.

The firmware (Ver.1.00-Ver.1.01 to Ver.1.02) update incorporates the following issues.

1.Just in the following camera procedure, aperture value was incorrectly displayed as "F2.2" even if actual value was set to "F2.0". This phenomenon is improved.
(1) Mode dial is set to [A] or [M]
(2) Aperture is set to F2.0 (open aperture).
(3) Zoom lens position is moved from wide edge to telephoto edge, and finally to wide edge, again.

2.In the TRACKING mode, the AF hunting occurs, which you can see coming in focus and out of focus continuously in the LCD monitor. This occurs in the two cases below.

(1) Turn on the camera to select "TRACKING" in AF mode(shooting menu) and change to shooting mode by half-pressing the shutter button.
(If changing to shooting mode by pressing "DISP/BACK" button, this cannot occur.)
(2) Turn off and on the camera while "TRACKING" mode.
(If turning on and off after changing to EXR mode, this cannot occur.)1.03 incorporates the following issues:

1.New function for "RAW" button can be applied by customer's preference
By holding down RAW button for approx. 2 seconds or more, RAW button can be applied into new function similar to "Fn" button setting.

2.Each value set on ISO sensitivity and Dynamic range can be maintained even if aperture setting mode (P / A / S / M) is changed.

3.Face detection function is upgraded to keep tracking face by means of face-tracking AF function. As this function is activated even in movie recording mode, AF on detected face in the movie becomes more effective.

4.Blooming (White disk) phenomena, which can be observed in EXR AUTO mode, is reduced.

5.Compatibility on Mac OS 10.7
When the camera is connected to Mac PC on Mac OS 10.7, the camera is effectively recognized. Additionally, compatibility on RAW FILE CONVERTER EX with Mac OS 10.7 has been confirmed.

6.AF confirmation sound was controlled on "SHUTTER VOLUME" in the SET-UP menu. By this update, this sound is controlled on "OPERATION VOL." in the SET-UP menu, just similar to another functions.

7.The image area with high brightness might be recorded as "black-out" area, just in case of dedicated shooting condition, This unpleasant phenomenon is improved.

8.When the flash is used under macro shooting condition, light-reflected area was shown in greenish. This unpleasant phenomenon is improved.

The firmware (Ver.1.00-Ver.1.01 to Ver.1.02) update incorporates the following issues.

1.Just in the following camera procedure, aperture value was incorrectly displayed as "F2.2" even if actual value was set to "F2.0". This phenomenon is improved.
(1) Mode dial is set to [A] or [M]
(2) Aperture is set to F2.0 (open aperture).
(3) Zoom lens position is moved from wide edge to telephoto edge, and finally to wide edge, again.

2.In the TRACKING mode, the AF hunting occurs, which you can see coming in focus and out of focus continuously in the LCD monitor. This occurs in the two cases below.

(1) Turn on the camera to select "TRACKING" in AF mode(shooting menu) and change to shooting mode by half-pressing the shutter button.
(If changing to shooting mode by pressing "DISP/BACK" button, this cannot occur.)
(2) Turn off and on the camera while "TRACKING" mode.
(If turning on and off after changing to EXR mode, this cannot occur.)

4 Day Sale Event, Tokina Lenses: Lens and Shutter Cameras

2012-02-08T18:32:00.000-08:00

Another Ad out right now.... Specials on Tokina. Hurry in while stock lasts!! Sale ends Feb 12th, 2012

Firmware Update, Nikon 1 cameras v1.11: lens and shutter

2012-02-07T10:17:00.000-08:00

Nikon has just issued a new update for the Nikon 1 V1 and the Nikon 1 J1

V1 update,

An issue that sometimes caused images captured using the Speedlight SB-N5 to be over-exposed has been resolved.
When switching from framing photos in the monitor to using the electronic viewfinder, or vice versa, with focus mode set to MF (manual focus) and the display zoomed in, the camera sometimes did not function properly. This issue has been resolved.

J1 Update,

An issue that sometimes caused images captured using the built-in flash to be over-exposed has been resolved.

4 Day Sales Event: Lens and Shutter Cameras

2012-02-01T09:48:00.000-08:00

Our latest four day event from February 2nd until February 5th, 2012.
Lens and Shutter Cameras

4 Day Sales Event, January 2012, Sigma:Lens and Shutter

2012-01-25T09:37:00.000-08:00

Its time to get your sweet Macro lens! Sale ends January 29th, 2012. Limited to stock on hand.

Firmware Update, Olympus Pen V1.2: Lens and Shutter

2012-01-19T16:04:00.000-08:00

Olympus have just released some updates for its most recent Pen Cameras, Pen E-P3, Pen E-PL3 and the E-PM1 to version 1.2
Choose your camera here

4 Day Sales Event, January: Lens and Shutter

2012-01-19T13:13:00.000-08:00

Our latest 4 Day Sales event, ends January 22nd, 2012. Limited to stock on hand and whilst quantities last.

Check your store near you.

Firmware Update: Pentax K-5: Lens and Shutter

2012-01-13T15:59:00.000-08:00

Click here for the latest update and info about the update announced a few days ago.

Waynes Tips, Using scene modes : Lens and Shutter

2012-01-12T11:02:00.001-08:00

#7-Using Scene Modes or What Do Those Funny Looking Symbols Mean?

Have you ever wondered what those cryptic symbols on your camera mean?

They represent different camera settings for different kinds of scenes or situations.

Almost all digital cameras, from the most basic to most advanced, have these modes.

These scene modes can often help you get a better photo than just leaving your camera set on the Auto or "P" Mode.

On many cameras you will see a dial or yours may have a menu with these symbols or icons.

What can these modes do for us and when should we use them?

Let's discuss each in turn. I will as well try to describe the most icon used for each mode. Your camera may differ.

The Four Main Modes

The profile of the head is the Portrait Mode. This is obviously a good mode for shots of individual people. One thing this setting does is try to keep the background out of focus so you subject stands out. Often this setting will also adjust colour and contrast settings to be more pleasing for portraits.

The mountain symbol is for Landscape photography. Here the camera will try to have as much as possible form near to far in focus. Also this mode will often emphasis the blues and greens important to scenery shots. It will often sharpen the image more than the Portrait mode. Try this mode the next time your are doing some scenic pictures.

The running figure is for action shots. Here the camera will go to fast shutter speeds, usually the fastest the light levels allow. As well, many cameras will go into a continuous shooting mode which will allow to shoot a series of pictures in rapid succession. Try this next time you are shooting action photos, whether that is you child playing soccer or you cat having some fun.

The symbol of the person with star behind them is called the Night Portrait Mode. What the camera will do is use the flash for the person but will also slow the shutter speeds down to allow the background light to be more visible. I used this mode to photograph my wife standing on the beach with a not overly bright sunset behind her. When I used this mode both here and sunset looked properly exposed. So use this mode whenever you have subject in the foreground plus a poorly lit background and you want to see both. Be careful with this mode though. In order to let the background be visible the shutter speeds needed can be slow so blurry pictures can be the result. Hold the camera as steady as possible or better yet use a tripod. This mode will also reduce the noise or speckled appearance that happens with most digital cameras when doing longer exposures.

The Less Common(But Still Useful) Modes

Other less common modes appear on some cameras. Often there will be a menu with these choices.

Party mode(Party horn and confetti) is much like the Night Portrait mode mentioned above. Like that mode, blurring can be a problem but here it can look interesting as well.

Beach/Snow(Snowman and/or Beach icon) adjusts the camera so these kind of highly reflective scenes do not come out underexposed.

Sunset(Sun halfway down) mode will add warmth to sunset pictures. Also the flash is turned off as it is no use for a sunset.

The Dusk/Dawn(Sun below horizon) setting adjusts exposure, colour, and reduces noise in shots done at these times. Again the flash is turned off. You may need to use image stabilization or a tripod.

Night Landscape(Building with star or moon) is basically the same as the Dusk mode. You may need to use image stabilization or a tripod.

Museum Mode(Columns of a museum like building) makes sure the flash will not turn on where you are not allowed to use it. On some cameras, Nikon for example, the camera will do a series of pictures and automatically keep only the sharpest one.

Fireworks(Fireworks burst) mode will set long exposure times, so you can see the light trails. You may need to use image stabilization or a tripod.

Copy mode(Page or document) can be used for quick copies of maps or documents, usually in black and white.

Back Light(Person with sun behind) will adjust the exposure to correct for subjects lit from behind.

Panorama mode(Looks a bit like a bow-tie) will let you take a series of shots and then stitch them together later to make a true panorama. Good for interiors and some scenic shots.

Your camera may have only some of these modes and maybe some I have not mentioned. The symbols may also look a little different. You may need to check your instruction manual. Some of the functions of these settings may also work differently on your camera, so again please check your manual.

A few concluding thoughts about these modes. Don't feel that you must slavishly set a specific mode every time you take a picture. In some cases because of light levels and camera limitations, you might not see much of a difference between the basic auto setting and some of the settings we have discussed. On the other hand, some of these modes can make quite a difference given the right circumstances. So if you have the time give them a try and you may be pleasantly surprised at the improvement in your photos.

The next subject: PSAM(No, it is not a cooking spray.)

January Sales Event: Lens and Shutter Cameras

2012-01-05T10:47:00.000-08:00

Some great clearance prices on some great products. Hurry... while stocks last!

Lens and Shutter

Firmware Update, Nikon 1 Cameras, v1.10: Lens and Shutter Cameras

2011-12-13T09:56:00.000-08:00

Both the Nikon 1 V1 and J1 have received some updates... Probably are both the same for fixes but heres the info anyways...

V1,

Support for the Mount Adapter FT1 has been added. The FT1 enables the use of Nikon F-mount NIKKOR lenses with the V1.
Primary specifications are as follows:
- Autofocusing is possible when AF-S lenses are used. However, focus mode must be set to AF-S (Single AF) and AF-area mode is fixed at Single-point with only the center focus point used.
- The focus indicator (range finder) can be used with CPU lenses.
- [P], [S], [A], and [M] exposure modes can be used with CPU lenses.
- [A] and [M] exposure modes can be used with non-CPU lenses. Aperture is specified using the aperture ring on the lens.
- Vibration reduction (VR) functions when VR lenses are used. Enable vibration reduction, or specify a setting, using switches on the lens.
- Shooting in Motion Snapshot mode is only possible when focus has been acquired with an AF-S lens.
- The Smart Photo Selector function cannot be used.
A Pixel mapping item has been added to the setup menu. Use this feature when unexpected bright spots are recorded in images.

J1,

Support for the Mount Adapter FT1 has been added. The FT1 enables the use of Nikon F-mount NIKKOR lenses with the J1.
Primary specifications are as follows:
- Autofocusing is possible when AF-S lenses are used. However, focus mode must be set to AF-S (Single AF) and AF-area mode is fixed at Single-point with only the center focus point used.
- The focus indicator (range finder) can be used with CPU lenses.
- [P], [S], [A], and [M] exposure modes can be used with CPU lenses.
- [A] and [M] exposure modes can be used with non-CPU lenses. Aperture is specified using the aperture ring on the lens.
- Vibration reduction (VR) functions when VR lenses are used. Enable vibration reduction, or specify a setting, using switches on the lens.
- Shooting in Motion Snapshot mode is only possible when focus has been acquired with an AF-S lens.
- The Smart Photo Selector function cannot be used.
A Pixel mapping item has been added to the setup menu. Use this feature when unexpected bright spots are recorded in images.

Timelapse Video

2011-12-10T16:37:00.001-08:00

Just thought I would share this cool Timelapse...
TimeScapes 4K from Tom Lowe on Vimeo.

Nikon AW100 Review: Lens and Shutter Cameras

2011-12-07T21:00:00.000-08:00

We have been lucky enough to have had the use of the Nikon AW100 for a little while. It's Nikon's latest compact with "rough and tumble" capabilities, as well as being waterproof up to 33feet. Plenty of nice specs on this unit starting with a 16mp CMOS sensor (that of the Nikon P300). Click her to view specs
Nikon hasn't attempted a fully submersible model since their amazing Nikonos line of diving cameras, to my knowledge. They have, however, added a touch of nostalga to it by dressing it in familiar Nikonos colours....


Featured here with my Nikonos V

They have also created it in a deep blue and a flat black which both look as nice just not as vintage Nikon!!
As soon as I grabbed the Camera I noticed it amazing ability in White Balance. It seems fast and so so accurate. I put it through a few challenging lighting scenarios where normal other cameras would get it wrong, the best places to try this are indoors and outdoors in the shade. Our newest little Christmas tree is a pure white tree which had some very powerful morning sun thrusting upon it but the camera seemed to nail the WB wonderfully in Auto Mode.

Next up for the WB test was shopping at the local hardware store.... and the light seems to be a wonderful "white"!

Lastly in the shade which more commonly will turn an image very Cyan/ Blue.

Anyways, having been so impressed with the Auto WB feature I quickly forgot that this camera lacks the ability of the RAW file. I think I could live without it on this camera!
Next up I just went out a played. Mostly I found myself playing with the macro on this one.

Being that its a little chilly out here at the moment I didnt brave it and shove the camera in any streams etc to prove its waterproof claim, I am safely assuming that it "does what it says on the can". My poor little hands might get too cold and fall off!

Check out these Crop shots..


Original Shot

Cropped version

Original Shot

Cropped Version

One of my co-workers had played a bunch with the full HD video on this model, here are a few examples of what he got up to...

Chris had the camera mounted to his Monopod with a ball head. He later learned that you could actually adjust the white balance before you start recording the video...he just suggested the cool tone added to the cold effect!!!!

A video shot at the local Abbotsford Heat game... Lucky enough to get a goal scoring scene..
Lastly here are some more images shot right out of the camera in Auto Mode.... very impressive.

This camera will be passed upon by many, as it "only" has a 5x optical zoom. People have become used to being able to get little cameras which have 15x optical zoom, personally my everyday camera is currently a fixed focal length of 24mm wide angle. I do just fine with that range.
Due to the design constraints of a shockproof and waterproof model the manufacturers have only been able to work with the 5x up till now. I am sure one day they will manage to get it to a 8x but at this time the zoom range is plenty for the average user. The way they have geared up these models is probably more for the watersports type (kayaking) or the adventure seeker (wingsuit, mountain biker etc).

Many of the effect modes, as per the Coolpix P300 are on this model, such as the impressive "easy pano" mode...I did this pano very easily, thank you Nikon.

Firmware Update : Panasonic GH2: Lens and Shutter

2011-12-07T15:33:00.000-08:00

Panasonic just released an update for the GH2 v1.1

Fixes/ improvements are below.

Added a video mode [HIGH BIT RATE] which is suitable for editing video recorded at high bit rate(24Mbps).
Added a function [POWER ZOOM LENS] when using power zoom lens.
([DISP FOCAL LENGTH], [STEP ZOOM], [ZOOM RESUME], [ZOOM SPEED], [ZOOM RING]*)
Full area enlargement of AF area setting.
Improved in the speed of consecutive shooting when shot with auto bracket.
Increased number of recordable images in consecutive shooting.
[EX.TELE CONV. (Extra Tele Conversion)] can be set ON/OFF separately in photo or video recording.
More accurate light adjustment of built-in flash.
Improved in the AF performance in video recording.
Synchronization of alarm volume for low battery with [BEEP VOLUME].
Added a function [HALF PRESS RELEASE].
Improved NR (Noise Reduction) in high sensitivity shooting.
Added a function [TOUCH SCREEN] which is ON/OFF control of touch-screen.

Firmware Update: Nikon Coolpix P7000: Lens and Shutter

2011-12-06T16:38:00.001-08:00

Nikon announced a firmware update for the recently discontinued Coolpix P7000

Update improvements

Autofocus performance has been increased for more reliable focus acquisition on the intended subject, reducing the number of cases in which focus on the subject was not acquired or focus was acquired on the background when the shutter-release button was pressed halfway.
Auto bracketing and the self timer can now be enabled at the same time.
Aperture settings at or near maximum aperture were grayed out and apparently unavailable for selection (selection was actually possible) when the following procedure was performed. This issue has been resolved.
- An aperture value other than maximum aperture was applied with shooting in [A] (aperture-priority auto) mode
- The camera was turned off
- The camera was turned on again
- The user attempted to adjust the aperture setting (aperture settings at or near maximum aperture grayed out)
An issue that prevented operation of the specified function when the shutter-release button was pressed while the Fn (function) button was held down in [M] (manual) mode has been resolved.
An issue that in some rare cases caused inaccurate shutter speed display in [M] (manual) mode has been resolved.
An issue that caused an asterisk (*) to be displayed, and continue to be displayed even when settings were reverted to their default values, next to the Vivid Picture Control (COOLPIX Picture Control) option when User Setting U3 was enabled has been resolved.
The results of adjustments to White balance>Choose color temp. using the P7000's NRW (RAW) processing function on NRW (RAW) images were the opposite of those achieved with adjustment of NEF (RAW) images captured with Nikon digital-SLR cameras (higher settings resulted in bluer images while lower settings resulted in redder images). P7000 settings have been reversed for operation and results similar to that of D-SLR cameras.
An issue that in some extremely rare cases caused NRW (RAW) images to become completely black with editing using the camera'sNRW (RAW) processing function or with RAW processing using ViewNX 2 has been resolved.
An issue that caused borders and outlines in images to appear rough with playback on an HDTV when the camera was connected to the TV via an HDMI cable has been resolved.

Christmas Flyer, Christmas Sale: Lens & Shutter Cameras

2011-11-30T23:30:00.000-08:00

Here is our HUGE Christmas Flyer which has lots of great deals... Hurry in as some stock will be very limited...
Specials End on December 24th, 2011

Nikon SB-910 Flash Speedlight: Lens & Shutter

2011-11-30T09:02:00.001-08:00

Nikon has just announced a new speedlight into the lineup....Nikon SB-910. I am not entirely sure if we now see the SB-900 be discontinued....we'll wait and see!

Spec's are as follows.

Commander Function
Yes
Remote Function
Yes
Guide Number
34m/111.5ft. (at ISO 100, 35mm zoom head position, in FX format, standard illumination pattern, 20°C/68°F) to 48m/157.5ft. (at ISO 200, 35mm zoom head position, in FX format, standard illumination pattern, 20°C/68°F)
Electronic Construction
Automatic Insulated Gate Bipolar Transistor (IGBT) and series circuitry
Flash Exposure Control
Distance-priority manual flash
i-TTL Balanced Fill-Flash with CLS compatible cameras
Manual Flash (with Nikon Creative Lighting System digital and 35mm SLR cameras)
Lens Coverage
8 to 11mm (DX-format, Automatic mode with built-in wide-angle panel deployed)
12 to 17mm (FX-format, Automatic mode with built-in wide-angle panel deployed)
12 to 200mm (DX-format, Automatic mode)
17 to 200mm (FX-format, Automatic mode)
Illumination pattern
The light distribution angle is automatically adjusted to the camera's image area in both FX and DX formats
Standard
Even
Centre-weighted
Other Available Functions
Test Firing
Monitor Pre-flashes
AF-assist illumination for multi-point AF
Modeling illuminator
Bounce Function (Tilt)
Flash head tilts down to 7° or up to 90° with click-stops at -7°, 0°, 45°, 60°, 75°, 90°.
Bounce Function (Rotate)
Flash head rotates horizontally 180° to the left and right with click-stops at 0°, 30°, 60°, 75°, 90°, 120°, 150°, 180°
Minimum Recycling Time
2.3 sec. (approx.) with Ni-MH (2600 mAh) batteries
3.0 sec. (approx.) with Oxyride™ (1.5V) batteries
4.0 sec. (approx.) with Alkaline-manganese (1.5V) batteries
4.5 sec. (approx.) with Lithium (1.5V) batteries
Flash Duration
1/880 sec. at M 1/1 (full) output
1/1100 sec. at M 1/2 output
1/2550 sec. at M 1/4 output
1/5000 sec. at M 1/8 output
1/10000 sec. at M 1/16 output
1/20000 sec. at M 1/32 output
1/35700 sec. at M 1/64 output
1/38500 sec. at M 1/128 output
Required Power Source
Four 1.2V Ni-MH (AA-size) batteries
Four 1.5V Alkaline-manganese (AA-size) batteries
Four 1.5V Lithium (AA-size) batteries
Optional Power Supply
SK-6 Power Bracket Unit, SD-9 High-Performance Battery Pack
SD-8A High-Performance Battery Pack
Flash-ready Indicator
Rear and Front lights blink: Insufficient light for correct exposure (in i-TTL, Auto Aperture flash, Non-TTL Auto flash, or Distance-priority manual flash operations).
Rear lights up and Front blinks: recycled and ready to fire.
Ready Light
Front
Flash Compensation
–3.0 EV to +3.0 EV in increments of 1/3 steps in i-TTL auto flash, Auto Aperture flash, Non-TTL auto flash and Distance-priority manual flash modes
Custom Setting
AF-Assist Illumination
Modeling Illuminator
Monitor pre-flashes
Test firing
Minimum Number of Flashes / Recycling Time
110/4.0 – 30 sec. (1.5V Alkaline-manganese)
125/3.0 –30 sec. (1.5V Oxyride™)
165/2.3–30 sec. (Ni-MH (eneloop))
190/2.3–30 sec. (2600mAh Ni-MH)
230/4.5–120 sec. (1.5V Lithium)
Wireless Flash Modes
Master
Master (RPT)
Off
Remote
SU-4
Wireless Communication Channels
Four: 1, 2, 3 and 4 Channels
Wireless Groups
Three: A, B and C
Other Functions
Firmware update
ISO sensitivity setting
Key lock
Recalling the underexposure value in the TTL auto flash mode
Resetting the settings
Improved Thermal Cut-out
Dimensions
3.1 x 5.7 x 4.4 in. (78.5 x 145 x 113mm)
Weight (Approx. without batteries)
14.8 oz. (420g)
Supplied Accessories
- AS-21 Speedlight Stand
- SW-13H Nikon Diffusion Dome
- SZ-2FL Fluorescent Filter
- SZ-2TN Incandescent Filter
- SS-910 Soft Case

Black Friday Sale: Lens and Shutter Cameras

2011-11-24T13:22:00.001-08:00

Two great deals for this weekend.
Sale ends November 27th, 2011

Waynes Tips: Effective Focusing and Zooming (compact camera): Lens & Shutter

2011-11-22T12:23:00.000-08:00

#6-Effective Focusing and Zooming with Compact Digital Cameras

Focusing

One of the most common complaints we hear about compact digital cameras is something we call shutter lag. (Compact cameras would include Point & Shoot and Hybrid Models. Please check column #9 for defintions.) That is, the time that passes after pressing the shutter button but before the camera actually takes the picture.

The auto focus function on digital cameras is one of the prime factors in this problem. So what can we do to speed up the process?

One of the best things you can do is pre-focus. This means we aim the camera at our subject and press the shutter button down halfway until an indicator tells us we are focused. On many cameras the indicator is a green dot that lights up. One the display on the back of your camera it may be a dot or the letters AF(auto focus) or both. When this happens and you continue to hold the button at the position described the focus is locked.

Then you wait until you see the picture you want and press the button down the remaining distance. Because almost all the work has already been done the shutter lag time will be much, much less on the majority of cameras.

On most newer cameras this shutter/focus lag problem is much less of an issue than it once was. I have noticed however that the problem can still be more apparent when using the longer end of your zoom.

When you are looking for a new camera have the salesperson help you to compare different models to see which suits you needs.

In some cameras you may be able to manually focus the lens. This may also shorten lag time.

There are some other aspects of focus we need to understand as well.

Almost all cameras today have multiple focusing targets. When the camera looks at you scene it will usually check to see which object is the closest and focus on this.

This generally works very well but sometimes can be fooled. For example if there was something between you and your subject it may focus on that instead of what you want.

In this case you will need to use a different method.

If people are your subject one the simplest methods is something called FACE DETECTION. This allows the camera to search for faces in your scene and set the focus and exposure for the face. In most cases this will work almost regardless where the face is in the photo. So even if your subject is way off centre you will usually get a well focused image.

Almost all current cameras have this function. Please check you manual to see how your camera does.

For other types of subject I would do the following. Turn off the multiple targets and use only one. Normally I would use the center one and then do the following.

Aim this center target and your subject and press your shutter button halfway down. At this point the camera will focus and give the indications we talked about earlier.

Then keep the shutter depressed while changing your composition (if needed) to place your subject where you want it in the frame. Then continue depressing the shutter button until the photo is taken.

This procedure, by the way, is usually only needed for closer distances. In other words don't worry if the mountain is in the middle or not as long as there is not something close to you that the camera may focus on instead.

With this problem in mind, most cameras have a Infinity focus mode usually designated by a mountain symbol. Sometimes a tree branch hanging down may cause the camera to focus on it. Other times the glass in vehicle windows can fool the camera. Depending on clear the glass is, the camera may focus on it instead of the scene. Using this setting will force the focus to long distance or infinity, effectively dealing with these problems.

Another useful focus setting on your camera will designated by a flower symbol. This is known as the macro mode. This is very useful for close-up pictures of flowers and the like. This setting often gives the best close-up when your zoom is set in the wide angle range but your camera may differ. Many cameras will now go into this mode automatically. So check your manual on this one.

Sometimes the camera will difficulty focusing on certain subjects. Your camera focuses by comparing contrast in the subject you are shooting. For example black text on a white background has very high contrast. Blue sky on the other hand has virtually no contrast at all. Contrast levels also drop when light levels drop, so a subject it could handle under bright light become more difficult under low light. When your camera sees little or no contrast in colour or detail it will usually not focus very well.

To deal with this there are some things you can do. One is to aim the camera at a higher contrast subject at about the same distance,lock the focus, and then recompose the picture. Another method is to use manual focus if your camera has it. For scenery, the Infinity focus setting will also work.

Most of the time the auto focus on you camera works very well but do keep the above information in mind. Then when problems do arise you will be able to deal with them more effectively.

Zooming

Almost every camera we sell here has a zoom lens built in. Having the ability to vary the angle of view is what defines a zoom lens. Most of the lenses built in to the typical digital camera cover a range from a moderate wide angle view to a moderate amount of telephoto. But what do these terms mean? And how can we use them effectively?

On the front ring of most lenses is a number which would look something like this: 8-32mm. This is what is known as the focal length of the lens.

Often zooms are spoken of as 3x, 10x, or something like this number. This figure is arrived at by dividing the bigger number by the smaller number. In the case above 32 divided by 8=4x zoom.

What this means is that objects will be four times bigger when photographed at the highest number setting than at the lowest number.

Focal length numbers work this way.

The lower the number, the wider the angle of view. At the same distance more of the scene will appear in the picture when using lower numbers than higher ones. However to fit more information in the frame the size of objects are reduced. This is called a wide-angle lens.

The higher the number, the narrower angle of view. At the same distance less of the scene is visible but the size of the objects within the area is increased. This is called a telephoto lens

On most cameras the zoom control will have one of two ways of telling you which end of the zoom you are going towards . One way is with the letters W(Wide-angle) or T(Telephoto). The other common way is showing a symbol with three small trees (Wide-angle) or one larger tree (Telephoto).

Often all you will do is look at the finder and move the zoom control back an forth until you like the way the picture looks. However, in some situations you may want to have the lens at the widest angle or most powerful telephoto before you bring the camera to your eye in order to shoot quickly. So understanding the controls we have discussed will help you.

Usually it is better to shoot portraits at the moderate telephoto setting. This gives a natural look to this kinds of shot. When using you built in flash, however, this will increase the red-eye problem as mentioned in the previous column on flash.

The telephoto setting on most cameras also have a few other disadvantages. The telephoto setting usually gathers less light so the shutter speeds slow down. At the same time camera movement is magnified so higher speeds are needed. This makes low light photography more difficult so using the wide angle can often give better results.

Sometimes the camera focuses more slowly on the telephoto setting as well.

The telephoto on most compact digital cameras is not powerful enough for sports or wildlife shots, so if you have this kind of photography in mind make sure you buy a camera with an long telephoto range. I would often suggest the Hybrid cameras discussed in column #9.

Interiors, scenery, and large groups of people at close distances are good places to use the wide angle setting of your camera. Try not to use this setting for portraits because it will cause unflattering distortion of facial features.

On some cameras you can add on attachments which will increase the wide-angle or telephoto effect of your lens. Check your manual to see if your camera is capable of this.

One final thing to remember about your zoom is this. The telephoto setting on your camera magnifies the image but also magnifies the movement your make when holding the camera. This is known as camera shake and is one of the most common enemies of picture sharpness. So when using the telephoto setting on your camera use both hands to hold the camera steady. Also gently squeeze the shutter button down to take the picture. You may also need to use a tripod.

Keep these suggestions in mind and you will get better digital images.

Next time I will discuss the various scene modes that most digital cameras have today.

Firmware Update: Nikon 1 Lenses: Lens & Shutter

2011-11-21T10:01:00.001-08:00

Nikon slipped out a couple updates for the New Nikon 1 Lenses.

Download them here
1 Nikkor VR 10-30mm f/3.5-5.6
1 Nikkor VR 10-100mm f/4.5-5.6 PD-Zoom
1 Nikkor VR 30-110mm f/3.8-5.6

Specs for the improvements can be found at the links above.

Nikon 1 Camera: Rob Galbraith: Lens & Shutter

2011-11-19T13:20:00.001-08:00

Here is a pretty interesting article by Rob Galbraith giving you the ins 'n' outs of the new Nikon 1 System.

I am not really one for using someone else article but its very complete and the likelihood of me getting a demo to play with right now is slim to none, so this will have to do.

Read More

4 Day Sale, Sigma Lenses: Lens & Shutter Cameras

2011-11-17T16:05:00.001-08:00

Our newest 4 day event is now on and this weekend special is on select Sigma Lenses. Limited Stock, so visit soon!
Sale Ends Sunday November 20th, 2011.

Sale Ends Sunday November 20th, 2011.

Firmware Update: Canon EOS 5D II: Lens & Shutter Cameras

2011-11-14T13:00:00.000-08:00

Next up is another new Update for the Canon EOS 5DII.

Download it here.

The update adjusts the following anomalies...

Firmware Version 2.1.1 incorporates the following fixes and improvements. 
1. Fixes a phenomenon where shooting stops after capturing one image when in continuous shooting or the Auto Exposure Bracketing (AEB) continuous shooting setting.
2. Corrects wording in the Dutch language menu screen. 

Firmware Version 2.1.1 is for cameras with firmware up to Version 2.0.9. If the camera's firmware is already Version 2.1.1, it is not necessary to update the firmware.

Q&A Section:
Preparations for the Firmware Update:

After the downloaded compressed file (.zip) is extracted, a firmware folder is created.
*Extracting the downloaded file: Right-click the zip file, and then select Extract All to extract the file. The extracted folder contains the firmware (file name: 5D200211.FIR, file size: 9,754,588 bytes) and instructions on the firmware update procedures (a PDF file in five languages: Japanese, English, French, Spanish, and Simplified Chinese). Before starting the firmware update operations, please confirm the contents of the download, and carefully read through the firmware update procedures.

The extracted folder contains the firmware (file name: 5D200211.FIR, file size: 9,754,588 bytes) and instructions on the firmware update procedures (a PDF file in five languages: Japanese, English, French, Spanish, and Simplified Chinese). Before starting the firmware update operations, please confirm the contents of the download, and carefully read through the firmware update procedures.

(The following is the history of past firmware updates.)

Q: Are the previous versions of firmware included in version 2.1.1?
A: Yes, the following improvements from the previous versions are included:.

(Previous) Version 2.0.9 improvements:
1. Improves writing/reading speeds when using UDMA 7-compatible CF cards.
2. Fixes a phenomenon where the IS function will not work when custom function C.Fn III-2 is set to [5: IS start] and the lens attached does not have an AF stop button. This is because custom function C.Fn III-2 allows users to assign IS start to the AF stop button on the lens
3. Corrects misspellings in the menu screens displayed in Arabic, Portuguese, Spanish, and Thai languages.

(Previous) Version 2.0.8 improvements:
1. Fixes a phenomenon *1) in which movies are not taken at the shooting mode registered in the user's settings if a shooting mode Aperture priority (or Shutter priority) is registered in any of the camera's user settings (C1, C2, C3) and the user attempts to shoot a movie. 
*1) This phenomenon occurs with cameras that have the Version 2.0.3 / 2.0.4 / 2.0.7 firmware.
2. Fixes a phenomenon in which the shutter will not release when pressing the shutter button when the auto power off function is set to "on". It occurs due to the communication between the camera and the lens or the flash or due to the CF card. 
3. Fixes a phenomenon *2) in which overexposure occurs when shooting a Live View shooting simulation with the ISO speed set to L. 
*2) This phenomenon only occurs when the EF 2x extender is used, the camera's ISO speed is set to L (Low), and the shooting mode is set to P (Program AE).
4. Fixes a phenomenon in which the settings of the Speedlite transmitter ST-E2 revert to the default settings when both the camera and the ST-E2 are set to auto power off. 
5. Fixes a phenomenon in which the Macro Ring Lite (MR-14EX, MT-24EX) and slave flash do not sync while shooting wirelessly.

(Previous) Version 2.0.7 improvements:
1. Fixes a phenomenon in which the aperture exhibits abnormal movement when shooting movies in manual exposure mode and Aperture Priority AE (Av mode) using some Canon lenses (such as macro lenses). 
Supplemental Information: 
This phenomenon involves the aperture of the lens exhibiting abnormal movement when the focusing ring moves (during focusing). For zoom lenses with variable maximum apertures, 
the aperture changes when the zoom ring is operated (during zooming), but this is normal behavior, where the effective aperture changes according to the focal length (the zoom position). 
2. Fixes a phenomenon in which the exposure level shown in the LCD panel differs from what is shown in the viewfinder when shooting still images in manual exposure mode. 
3. Fixes a phenomenon in which the Wireless File Transmitter (WFT-E4 or WFT-E4 II) may not automatically power off when used for FTP transfers.

(Previous) Version 2.0.4 improvements:
Firmware Version 2.0.4 incorporates five enhancements to the movie function and a fix to the manual sensor cleaning function of the EOS 5D Mark II camera.
1. Adds or changes the following movie frame rates.
- NTSC frame rate (fps) 
.  Firmware Version 2.0.4 or later 
. . .    Recording size / Listed / Actual
. . .     1920 X 1080 / 30 / 29.97
. . .    1920 X 1080 / 24 / 23.976
. . .    640 X 480 / 30 / 29.97
.  Firmware Version 1.2.4 or earlier 
. . .    Recording size / Listed / Actual
. . .    1920 X 1080 / 30 / 30.00
. . .    1920 X 1080 / - / -
. . .    640 X 480 / 30 / 30.00
- PAL frame rate (fps)
.  Firmware Version 2.0.4 or later 
. . .    Recording size / Listed / Actual
. . .    1920 X 1080 / 25 / 25.00
. . .    1920 X 1080 / 24 / 23.976
. . .    640 X 480 / 25 / 25.00
.  Firmware Version 1.2.4 or earlier 
. . .    Recording size / Listed / Actual
. . .    1920 X 1080 / 30 / 30.00
. . .    1920 X 1080 / - / -
. . .    640 X 480 / 30 / 30.00
2. Adds a function for manually adjusting the sound recording level (64 levels). 
3. Adds a histogram display (brightness or RGB) for shooting movies in manual exposure. 
4. Adds shutter-priority AE mode (Tv) and aperture-priority AE (Av) mode to the exposure modes for shooting movies. 
5. Changes the audio sampling frequency from 44.1 KHz to 48 KHz. 
6. Fixes a phenomenon where communication between the camera and the attached lens is sometimes interrupted after manual sensor cleaning. (This phenomenon only affects units with Firmware Version 1.2.4.)

(Previous) Version 1.2.4 improvements:
1. Supports the WFT-E4 II wireless file transmitter that was released in December 2009. 
  After the firmware is updated, if the WFT-E4 or WFT-E4 II wireless file transmitter is used with the camera, the indications that appear under [Communication mode] on the [WFT settings] menu are changed as follows:
FTP -> FTP trans 
PTP(PC) -> EOSUtility 
HTTP -> WFTserver 
HTTP account -> WFT account 
2. Corrects a phenomenon in which visible noise may appear in images taken by continuous Bulb shooting. 
This firmware update corrects a phenomenon that if the [C.Fn II-1 Long exposure noise reduction] setting is set to [2: On], noise may appear in images that are captured while the previous image is still being generated.

(Previous) Version 1.1.0 improvements:
1. Includes a function to enable the manual exposure setting when shooting movies. 
*When shooting movies in manual (M) mode, the shutter speed *1, the lens aperture value *2, and the ISO speed *3 can be freely set to allow a greater flexibility.
Notes:
*1 Shutter speed range: 1/30 sec. to 1/4000 sec.
*2 Lens aperture range: maximum to minimum aperture value of the lens used
*3 ISO speed range:
       Auto: ISO 100 to 6400 set automatically
       Manual: ISO 100 to 6400, H1 
2. Disables the function of the depth-of-field preview button when images are played back or when the menu screen is displayed on the LCD panel. 
*There are indications that images being reviewed or the menu screen may suddenly disappear from the LCD panel. As this phenomenon may be caused by accidentally pressing the depth-of-field preview button, this firmware update disables the function of the depth of field preview to address this issue.
3. Fixes a phenomenon where the peripheral illumination of images cannot be properly corrected, even if the images were captured with the lens Peripheral Illumination Correction function set to Enable. 
*Firmware Version 1.1.0 fixes a phenomenon where peripheral illumination may not be properly corrected due the type of lens used and shooting conditions.
4. Fixes the algorithms of the Auto Lighting Optimizer function when Custom Function C.Fn II-3 Highlight tone priority is enabled. 
5. Fixes incorrect indications on the Arabic, Romanian, Spanish, and Ukrainian menu screens. 
6. Changes the battery information displayed on the camera when using the optional Battery Grip BG-E6. 
*If only one LP-E6 battery pack is installed in the Battery Grip BG-E6, the battery information for the empty battery slot shows the error message, Cannot communicate with battery. However, with this firmware update, this error message no longer appears, even if only one LP-E6 battery pack is installed.

(Previous) Version 1.0.7 improvements:
1. "Black dot" phenomenon (the right side of point light sources becomes black) 
When shooting night scenes, the right side of point light sources (such as lights from building windows) may become black. The phenomenon may become visible if the images are enlarged to 100% or greater on a monitor or if extremely large prints of the images are made. 
This firmware improves and mitigates this phenomenon.
2. Vertical banding noise 
If the recording format is set to sRAW1, vertical banding noise may become visible depending on the camera settings, subject, and background. The firmware improves and mitigates this phenomenon
Notes:
When updating to Firmware Version 1.0.7, please also update the Digital Photo Professional and Picture Style Editor software *4 to the following versions or later. These software updates can be downloaded from our Web site. 

*4 Digital Photo Professional: Version 3.5.2 or later (for Windows and Macintosh) 
      Picture Style Editor: Version 1.4.2 or later (for Windows and Macintosh) 
If the existing software applications are used to display sRAW1 and sRAW2 images that were captured by a camera with Firmware Version 1.0.7, dark, low-contrast areas in the images may appear slightly magenta. If the updated software applications are used to display sRAW1 and sRAW2 images, the color of the images will appear normal, regardless of the camera firmware version.

Wayne's Tips, White Balance: Lens and Shutter Cameras

2011-11-13T17:30:00.000-08:00

#5-The White Balance Blues(and Reds, Greens, Yellows, etc.)

What is It?

Did you ever take a picture with a film camera under artificial light and wonder why the colours looked so orange or green? With your eyes the colours looked good, so why so inaccurate on the film?

The reason for this is that your eye + brain combination adapted to tell you that the light is white, like daylight, even though if fact is was not. The real colour of incandescent(normal light bulb) light is a warm orange. Fluorescent light is usually some shade of green.

You can see this when you walk outside at night and look at the light from a house window. Ever noticed how warm it looks? This is the real colour. Because you are not immersed in the light you have not adapted to it.

So why are we considering this?

This is because digital cameras have, like your eye, the ability to adapt to different kinds of light and still give you accurate colour.

This function is know as White Balance. All digital cameras have it.

Auto White Balance

By default almost all cameras are set to Auto White Balance, often using the acronym AWB.

This setting works by assuming that the area of lightest tone in your scene is either white or grey. The camera than adjusts its settings to keep this area free of colour contamination. This also means that all other colours should therefore be accurate as well.

Auto White Balance usually works very well. Most people will probably be very happy with the colour this setting generally produces.

When Auto White Balance Does Not Work

Sooner or later, however, you will run into a situation where you are not happy.

Why does this happen?

In most cases, the reason for failure is that the lightest colour in the scene in is not neutral. The camera does not know this, so it's settings here would be based on a faulty assumption. Often this results in all colours being skewed as the camera tries to make something that is actually light yellow, for example, into white.

In other cases the type of light fools the camera. On my Pentax K100D for example, the Auto white balance under normal room light leaves the colours much too warm. Many cameras seem to have issues with this light source known as tungsten.

What can be done to correct the problem?

The majority of digital camera have ways to override the AWB. There normally would be number of preset white balance settings on the white balance menu.

They may be shaped like the sun, clouds, light bulbs, or fluorescent tubes.

Your camera likely has symbols similar to these.

Often these settings will give you more accurate colour than the AWB. I found for example when taking flower pictures on cloudy days or in shady conditions using the Cloudy setting gives better colour. The excess warmth of indoor shots is corrected most often by using the Incandescent/Tungsten setting.

These presets still do have limitations. I was at the Museum of Flight in Seattle some time ago and found that neither the AWB or any of the presets gave accurate colour under the lights they were using.

I switched to the Preset or Measured White Balance mode.

This is usually designated by the letters PRE(preset) or a strange little symbol of a square with two small triangles below it.

I then aimed the camera at something I knew was white and told the camera to measure this subject. It then calibrated itself to this standard and Voila! The colours were right(or at least quite close).

This is a very good mode to use for precise colour. For example when photographing a painting, you would do best to measure off something you know is white or grey. A good standard to use is what is known as an 18% grey card. Not only is it neutral in colour but you can also use it to obtain the best exposure.(For more info on the 18% grey standard, please refer to my column on exposure.) By the way, the camera remembers this setting until you take another reading.

If you are using a Digital Single Lens Reflex(DSLR) you can use a device like the BaLens or ExpoDisc which you attach to the front of the lens. Then you use your preset white balance setting to obtain an accurate reading.

Some cameras can also do a white balance bracketing mode where it will take a series of pictures and change the colour in each shot. This allows you to choose the one that works best

Last but not least, you can often correct many colour casts with an image editing program. However, it is still best to get it close as possible in he camera, as I have found that some scenes are very difficult to try to correct later. This is true especially in JPG images. However, if you have shot your images in RAW(Column #2) white balance can be more accurately adjusted.

Do some experimentation. Try some of the suggestions mentioned here. I am sure that you will observe noticeable colour improvements in many of your shots.

Next time I will talk about zooming, focusing and related issues.

Very Cool Time Lapse Video : Lens & Shutter

2011-11-13T11:56:00.001-08:00

I just had to share this wicked Time Lapse courtesy of Nasa.
Apparently Shot with Nikon D3S with 17-35 2.8 and 14-24 2.4...
Enjoy.....

Earth | Time Lapse View from Space | Fly Over | Nasa, ISS from Michael König on Vimeo.

Firmware Update: Nikon D5100, Nikon D7000; Lens and Shutter

2011-11-12T14:02:00.001-08:00

Two updates for people to look at...
Nikon D7000 and Nikon D5100

Description of updates below

Nikon D7000:

An error where the card may not have been recognized when some memory cards were used has been addressed.
The following issues occurred when the mode dial was rotated from U1 or U2 to another shooting mode or from another shooting mode to U1 or U2 when the power was off or when the exposure meters are off (Auto meter-off). These issues were resolved.
- A new folder is sometimes created despite the fact that the current folder does not yet contain 999 files and none of the files are numbered “9999”.
- The number of remaining exposures may not be displayed as specified in the settings.
- The setting for Role played by card in Slot 2 may change between Overflow, Backup, and RAW Slot 1- JPEG Slot 2.
An issue where Battery info in the setup menu sometimes showed sufficient remaining charge even when the remaining charge for the AA batteries inserted in the MB-D11 battery pack was low has been resolved.
An issue where a saved photo may not have been displayed properly when a movie was displayed in playback mode while saving the photo has been resolved.
An issue where zoom in or zoom out may not have performed properly when the playback zoom in or playback zoom out button was pressed while in Live view has been resolved.
The message displayed when the internal memory of the Wireless Transmitter WT-4 is formatted from the Format transmitter's memory under Device settings in Wireless transmitter of the camera’s setup menu was changed from Done to Built-in memory formatted.
The message displayed when the internal memory of the Wireless Transmitter WT-4 is formatted from the Format transmitter's memory under Device settings in Wireless transmitter of the camera’s setup menu was changed from Done to Built-in memory formatted.

Nikon D5100:

An error where the card may not have been recognized when some memory cards were used has been addressed.
When Selective color from the retouch menu is performed on a picture taken with the image quality set to NEF (RAW)+JPEG and an image size of M or S, the edges of the image may not have changed color. This issue has been resolved.
When Metering was set to Matrix metering, the exposure mode set to M (Manual), and the HDR exposure differential set to Auto, the exposure differential was fixed at a value equivalent to 2 EV. This has been changed to enable automatic adjustment of exposure differential so that it is appropriate for the scene

4 Day Canon Special: Lens & Shutter Cameras

2011-11-09T22:45:00.000-08:00

We are having a Four Day Special on the Canon 5DII and Canon Rebel T2i.... See below!

Starting today Thursday 10th November, 2011 and ending on Sunday November 13th, 2011

Christmas presents?: Lens & Shutter Cameras

2011-11-07T11:04:00.000-08:00

"My dad has a DLSR, what can I buy for him under $100? He would like another lens".
This is possibly one of the most asked questions in December for us. Sadly, there are no lens's for any cameras for maybe any less than $129 depending on brand.
Here's what we would suggest....
Many accessories are available for this price range. Some of our favourite products include the Joby GorillaPod, Gary Fong Flash Diffuser " The Puffer", Crumpler Camera Strap (the Industry Disgrace).

Other accessories such as cleaning products, remotes, filters, monopods and even some additional flashes are well within reach, although these may require the knowledge of exactly what camera the "giftee" has.
Anyways, we are full of many suggestions and look forward to helping you with your Christmas Shopping experience this year.
If all else fails perhaps you can just them a gift card and let them spend where they need it.

Canon Cinema EOS C300: Lens & Shutter Cameras

2011-11-03T18:38:00.000-07:00

Canon have announced a new Cinema EOS C300 which is EF mount compatible... all you Video guys maybe interested!!
Check out Canon Canada's press release

Enjoy this short clip.

Mobius :: Behind The Scenes from Blake Whitman on Vimeo.

Firmware Update: Fuji Finepix X10: Lens & Shutter Camera

2011-11-02T11:41:00.000-07:00

Surprisingly Fuji has announced an Update for the highly anticipated X10 compact camera, even though its technically not available yet I am posting this for the L&S customers who are eagerly awaiting its arrival.
Fuji Finepix X10

Firmware Update: Olympus Pen E-P3: Lens & Shutter Cameras

2011-10-28T11:54:00.000-07:00

Olympus have just announced a firmware update for the Pen E-P3, resolving a few little issues.
Click here for the download page

The issues resolved are as follows.

Button controls do not work when the touch screen monitor is touched while using an optional electronic viewfinder.
The AF targets are not displayed while using an optional Eye-Fi memory card.

Canon Features Website: Lens & Shutter

2011-10-27T13:01:00.000-07:00

Canon have a very useful educational website regarding many of the products they have at this time, printers, compact camera, DSLR's and more. Its worth checking out even if you think you know everything!!

Canon Features

Contour Cameras: Lens and Shutter Cameras

2011-10-24T12:44:00.000-07:00

Welcome to one of our newest product lines, Contour Cameras. Full HD Video hands-free, great for all you thrill seekers looking to video your wild rapid kayak ride, your wingsuit air-drop or your cycle ride to work!

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Check out our store for pricing or come and visit to pick them up!

Firmware Update: Fuji Finepix X100: Lens and Shutter

2011-10-21T14:01:00.000-07:00

Another new update for the X100...

Here is the link and check the following write up below for the improvements.

1.Performance of auto focus at near distance has been improved.

2.When "SHADW TONE" is set to "MEDIUM SOFT" or "SOFT", live view in LCD may display with abnormal pattern (so-called "solarisation") just after pressing the shutter halfway. This update improves the phenomena.

3.When self-timer mode is selected, focus and exposure (AE/AF) are set just after pressing the shutter button and these settings are remained for the final shutter releasing.

The firmware update ver.1.10 incorporates the improvement against inadequate operation shown in the following.

1. The following functions can be rocked during shooting by holding down [MENU/OK] button over 3 sec. DRIVE/Flash/White balance/Macro (set on the Command Dial – 4 direction key)
2. “CORRECTED AF FRAME” menu is added in “SET-UP” menu (the last line on menu page 6) to display additional AF frame (corrected AF frame for reducing parallax) which can be effectively used for macro shots. (Factory default value is set to “OFF”)
3. Adjustment in1/3 step increment for shutter speed or aperture setting is enabled in Shutter-PriorityAE and Aperture-Priority AE mode, on top of those in Manual Exposure mode. Shutter-Priority AE: Adjustment is controlled by rotating the command dial Aperture-Priority AE: Adjustment is controlled by moving left/right on the command control lever
4. In the post-view mode (display after shooting), focused area is magnified in the LCD (EVF) display when the command control lever is pressed.Cf. “IMAGE DISP.” Setting must be set to “CONTINUOUS”
5. Setting of the role for “Fn” button is enabled by holding down “Fn” button over 3 sec.
6. Actual ISO sensitivity for shooting is displayed just after pressing shutter button halfway, when “ISO AUTO CONTROLL” is set to ON.
7. When “eye sensor” is activated by pressing “VIEW MODE” button, “EYE SENSOR” is displayed on EVF/OVF or LCD just a while to notice the status.
8. Macro mode ISO sensitivity, Drive mode, Dynamic range, Self-timer mode, flash mode is maintained even if shutter speed setting or aperture setting is changed. Also, even after changing viewing mode into shooting mode or turning of the camera, these values are maintained.
9. The size of focus frame set through viewing EVF/LCD is maintained even after changing display mode between OVF and EVF(LCD).
10. When “SHUTTER SOUND” is chosen, each shutter sound is performed in each menu selling
11. In viewing mode, the last viewed shot is maintained as even after changing into shooting mode Cf. After another image is shot after viewing former image, memory of viewing the image is cancelled and the last shot is displayed as the latest image.
12. When the aspect ration of the image size is set to 16:9, the line of bright frame line on OVF is displayed with aspect ratio 16:9.
13. Viewing mode with Photo Information on EVF/LCD is maintained even if another image is shot. On top of this issue, deleting picture directly is enabled even in viewing with Photo information by pressing the command dial up, or MENU operation is also enabled.
14. Occasionally, preview image on EVF/LCD after pressing the shutter halfway might be darker than live view, according to aperture setting or brightness of shooting target. This phenomenon is improved.
15. When “DISP. CUSTOM SETTING” is set to OVF or EVF/LCD, the setting value is maintained even after customizing the menu.
16. Even for only RAW data recording mode, “RED EYE REMOVAL” setting is selectable among ON or OFF.

The firmware update ver.1.01 incorporates the improvement against inadequate operation shown in the following.

If the images are shot with ISO Bracketing mode when "QUICK START MODE"(*1) is set to "ON" and turn off the camera,the camera cannot be turned on again even with ordinary operation.

*1 Menu of "QUICK START MODE" is set to "OFF" as factory-default value.

Firmware Update: Panasonic G3/ GF3: Lens and Shutter

2011-10-14T15:55:00.000-07:00

Panasonic have released an Update for the DMC-G3 / GF3
Update here

Full Frame vs Crop Sensor: See the difference: Lens and Shutter

2011-10-14T10:26:00.000-07:00

Here is an interesting video comparison between the Full Frame Canon EOS 5D II and the Canon EOS 7D. People often what we are talking about when we suggest the Crop factor involved. This pretty much explains it in a very pleasing visual manner.

5Dmk2/7D lens comparison test from Mike Collins on Vimeo.

LENSBABY: Lens and Shutter Cameras

2011-10-01T10:14:00.000-07:00

Lensbaby is a fantastic product we have been carrying for quite sometime yet I still run into people who havent heard of them. Since the release of their "original lensbaby", they have progressed and improved quality, performance and effects.

Now they boast an impressive lineup of lens's and accessories for all you creative types.

Our newest product in-store is the Lensbaby Composer Pro with "Sweet 35 Optic" ( Learn More)

Preview some of the galleries they have created

"Happy New Store": New Ad: Lens and Shutter

2011-09-28T09:26:00.000-07:00

We are celebrating our new store in Langley now being open and ready to help you. Here is a blistering Sale we are having... Happy Shopping!

"Just for Fun" Photo Project: Lens and Shutter

2011-09-20T18:00:00.000-07:00

So, since many of us have these fantastically cool cameras and we don't always do a lot with the images we, " the Collective" thought we would have a fun little photo submission challenge open to anyone. There is no monetary reward and no prizes (or cookies, well maybe cookies sometime), it is simply an ego booster (muhahah), NOT! It's purely a fun thing to do and maybe it can ramp up peoples creative juices and get you all out there shooting. Who knows maybe you'll get a whole bunch of "likes" and it'll make you feel good about yourself.

Basically, we will assign a topic for the photo, more than likely just one "word", and you can define your image anyway you see fit... use whatever means you wish to get the result with editing or whatever.

Once you are done then join our "Lens and Shutter Abbotsford" Facebook group and upload your image to the Folder that we will create for that assigned topic.... Simple really!

Also, if you have the time to suggest the type of camera you used and lens etc. when you upload the file then we can all see what is achieved from different models....

This is for FUN... this is not a contest!

The first "topic" for this FUN EVENT will be "OPEN"! take it as you will.... this will be an ongoing Photo Project so don't rush, you can submit whenever you like and in a little while we will post the next topic. One photo submission only per topic.

Let's all get out with our camera's and have some FUN!

New Store Open in Langley, BC : Lens and Shutter Cameras

2011-09-20T14:30:00.000-07:00

Fantastic news that our newest location in Langley now have the doors open and are waiting to help you!
The store is located in the Willowbrook Mall right next to Sears.

We are now seven stores strong and are proving to be BC's premier Camera Store destination.

I will post pics as soon as I get chance to visit!

APAC 34th Annual Seminar, Oct 15th, 2011: Lens and Shutter

2011-09-20T10:49:00.000-07:00

APAC is preparing for its 34th Annual Seminar in Abbotsford, BC. Lens and Shutter has always been a proud sponsor of this event and we wish our APAC friends much success for this great day. We look forward to seeing you on October 15th at the MEI location, Check the APAC site for full details.

Here are a few of the "show" images that Lens and Shutter have printed for the event.
Enjoy!

Nikon News??: Lens and Shutter

2011-09-20T09:41:00.000-07:00

Not that I am one for Rumours etc... but this has to be something fairly cool and real.

http://www.iamcomings.com/

pretty mysterious and kinda like watching paint dry.... but for some camera nerds like myself, mildly exciting!

Firmware Update: Panasonic Lumix LX5: Lens and Shutter

2011-09-14T08:59:00.000-07:00

For any of you whom are lucky enough to have the quality Panasonic LX5, they just released a new update. You have to love free updates!!!

The features of the new update are as follows....

Auto Focus speed-up.
[HIGH ISO NR] has been added to the [REC] menu.
Improved auto white balance performance.
[ACTIVE MODE] has been added to the [MOTION PICTURE] menu.
The AF/AE Lock operated by half-pressing the shutter button has been improved.
When [MF] is set, you can make fine adjustments to the focus using a simpler operation than before.
The position and size of the AF area you have set are now stored.
The upper limit of the shutter speed in Manual Exposure Mode has been raised. (Max 250 seconds approximately)
[MINIATURE EFFECT] has been added to My Colour Mode.
[MONITOR] / [VIEWFINDER] has been added to the [SETUP] menu.

Firmware Update: Olympus E-5: Lens and Shutter

2011-09-13T13:03:00.000-07:00

Olympus just announced an update for their Flagship DSLR E-5
Visit the site here

Apparently this is the Upgrade info but I am sure they have other reasons which they haven't disclosed!
"This update matches the rotation of the dial on the rear of the optional Power Battery Holder HLD-4 and the movement direction of the AF target. (Sept. 2011)""

Digital Noise ( Ramblings of a Photographer): Lens and Shutter

2011-09-13T10:41:00.000-07:00

So, we have seen a plethora of new releases in the last little while. No doubt that there will be a few more in the not to distant future as this industry continues to grow. With so many cameras it is often so hard to choose the right one for your needs. Our sales representatives at Lens & Shutter stores strive to "marry" our customers with the best camera for the situation that they are looking for.
Here is a little recap of some of the cameras that come very highly recommended and perhaps a few which can be added to this list, which havent made it to the shop floor just yet.

One of my favourites in the compact shock-proof, waterproof series is the Panasonic TS3, sadly I have not been able to borrow any Panasonics at this time but I am still working on our local rep. I think if I hound him enough he'll cave! Online reviews for this model rate it probably the top of its class and from what I have seen, I choose to agree. For many similar reasons I also greatly enjoyed the Pentax WG-1 of which I was able to use for a short while with its killer "Microscope" mode. (Pentax WG-1 post) One that will catch my interest when it arrives will be the New Nikon Coolpix AW100 which judging by the specs is going to give these other two models a little scare!!!

For your simple but flexible compact I would have to say the Canon Powershot SX220HS or SX230HS is a great buy. As featured in a previous post . Also in that mid zoom range we certainly cannot look past the Panasonic ZS7, its been a very well received model and looks also to have been super-ceded by the ZS8.
I am not too sure if it should go in this category but I will suggest the Newly announced Fuji Finepix X10, it looks like a classy little unit with the heart of its big brother the Fuji Finepix X100

For that amateur, experienced enthusiast or someone just like me, I would have to give two big thumbs up for the Canon G12 or Canon S95is and the Nikon Coolpix P7000. Three fantastic models with tons of control and versatility! I guess now you can pickup a well priced P7000 or wait for the recently announced Coolpix P7100 that has some decent looking upgrades.

Then we have the "Mirrorless" cameras or maybe known as the "Interchangeable Lens" cameras. Both Panasonic and Olympus nicely cornered that market but utilizing the same lens mount. New models by both manufacturers have both been announced and some has just arrived Olympus E-PL3 (this is my personal favourite) and E-P3. Although, I feel a Nikon "Mirrorless" is coming very shortly...

Lastly we have the DSLR world. Too many for me to suggest all in one post. Take your pick with Nikon, Canon, Pentax and Olympus. All have been around for a long time and all now a little about building sweet cameras. If I had to suggest the best "Bang for your Buck" I would probably suggest the Canon EOS 60D with 18-200IS combo for $1299, Canon has everybody beat with that price point!

And as I mentioned earlier we often suggest certain cameras depending on your specific needs, many of these cameras have sweet spots for required jobs!!

Pocket Wizard Update: Lens and Shutter

2011-09-02T16:24:00.000-07:00

For all you users of Pocket Wizards Flex TT5 and Mini TT1 please goto the Pocket Wizard site for some tasty updates!!!

Latest Ad: "Change": Lens and Shutter

2011-08-31T09:12:00.000-07:00

Our latest Ad is now out in the Province and Vancouver Sun. Check it out! Sale ends September 11th, 2011

Fuji Finepix X100: Its finally here: Lens and Shutter

2011-08-18T18:19:00.000-07:00

Fuji's excellent "retro" style X100, APS-C sized sensor camera is finally available on the shelf, at least for now.

With any luck I will be able to get the Fuji Rep to loan me a model for a little testing and maybe he will forget that I have it!!!
Call your nearby store to make sure they have them in stock!!!

New Ad: Savings: Lens and Shutter

2011-08-18T08:28:00.000-07:00

Here is our latest Ad which ends on August 28th, 2011. Or goto our website to see some of our clearance specials.

New Ad: Lens and Shutter Cameras

2011-08-04T17:08:00.000-07:00

Here is our latest Ad. Sale ends August 14th, 2011.

Olympus XZ-1 Review: Lens and Shutter

2011-08-02T23:08:00.000-07:00

My next test victim is the Olympus XZ-1. Not your average compact point and shoot despite its appearance. Olympus have been pioneering much of the camera technology for many years and since the digital age have really tried to separate themselves from all the others. This camera is in much the same class as the Canon S95is, offering the flash add-on availability of the Nikon P7000, but is ridiculously small compared to the P7000. So it is an interesting "in-betweener" with much of the features offered on their Olympus Pen Cameras (should be my next post).

Instantly noticeable is Olympus' bragging of the F1.8
aperture on this camera, which is a very attractive feature for users looking for that cool shallow depth of field (DOF). Shallow DOF however does come with its challenges, the shallower it is, the harder it is to get your subject in focus due to everything in the world moving!!! With the quick focusing it made it a little easier for some handheld shooting

Here are two shots which I composed as close as I could, you can really see the advantage of that 1.8 for emphasizing certain parts of the shot.

Just another suggestion for shallow DOF!

As mentioned on some of my previous posts "try adding some flash", this remarkable colourless shot, shot on a gloomy overcast evening was helped tremendously with a little help from the flash, the result is self explanatory!
More with the flash aspect of this camera, as previously mentioned it has a hot shoe on top. This for me is a must in the camera world. "Flash is your Friend", I once used to teach to the up and coming social photographers in England and a lot of them understood after some time with an additional flash. Why I want the option to put a whacking great big flash on my little camera is so I can control the light. I then have a dominant light source on my camera which I can control. Many people stray away from flash as they don't like the harsh shadows it can produce and also the different metering systems can dramatic change the look of a shot, when done with confidence you can achieve wonderful results.

These two shots are massively different yet I have only changed one thing with the camera setup... I have not suggested on the files what I did as I assume people will look at these images and choose the latter image as being the better looking shot. The advantage with this little camera was that I also borrowed the Olympus FL36R Speedlite . Its a simple enough technique to create this even lit shot. The FL36 flash allows you the capability of changing the light direction, I simply aimed the light up to the white ceiling in my room. This then sent out a dispersed light very evenly within the room instead of this harsh light which comes directly at the subject. SIMPLE, but only if you have the all important flash hot shoe, and the optional flash of course! Well I could waffle on about flash for a while so I am going to skip to the other wicked option that Olympus has been working on, " Art Filters". (Olympus website has some nice learning modules on it, worth checking out even if your not an Olympus shooters but need some pointers)

These two shot would be the same had I not shot one with the amazing "Dramatic Tone" filter. Wild!!! This filter completely makes this dull shot super interesting, and the beauty of it is that it's all done in-camera as your shooting it!!! No time necessary on the computer. Brilliant! Now one other nice luxury about this camera is that it has the ability to shoot in a Raw format. I was able to shoot in the art filter mode and still retain the unfiltered Raw version, so should I hate the filtered shot when I get home I can always refer back to the original shot. Or even better yet you can apply the filter on your computer through Olympus's " Master Software".

Ooooh, so moody! This filter grew on me very quickly. It also worked very well when there wasn't some cloud detail within the shot.

Architectural fun-ness!
Olympus has shared these art filters, 6 in total, on all the current models up from this XZ-1. Nice to have some continuity on different model lineups.

Two more of the filters. So nice not to have to edit the images. That would mean that people could wonder in to any of our stores and use the Kiosks for your prints without touching your home computer. ;-)

Here are just a few other images showing that the camera works just fine without needing the art filters, but they can certainly "Add" something to the images

These two little monkeys were shot in the shade and the colour tones were perfect, usually most camera turn the shade into a nasty cyan tone, but not on this occasion. They were particulary cheeky because they put popsickles on their noses.

A few more art filter shots

This is likely meant to be more for portraiture I imagine, but the soft tone worked nicely on this flora! I am no botanist or flower professional whatever the title actually is so I have no idea what this plant is called, and again I could be offending someone as it may not be a plant. I know cameras, eeeek!

Of course I had to "dramatic tone" it!!! Why not!
And lastly I "Pop Arted" it......

Once again no additonal computer editing has been done. These are all as shot out of the camera and when I didn't use the art filters, I mostly used "Program mode"! So excellent results are achievable right out of the camera.

Canon Pixma Pro 9500 II Super Sale: Lens and Shutter

2011-07-29T11:09:00.000-07:00

We are currently offering Canon Pixma Pro 9500 II 13x19 printer for the crazy low price of $499... reduced from $899. Once they are gone, they are GONE!

Amazing Black and White performance!

Professional Printing Performance for Large Archival Photos.

It is said that beauty is in the eye of the beholder. The same can be said for works of art. When you take a photograph, you are capturing your artistic ideas through imagery. The time has come for you as a photographer to invigorate
and expand your artistic spirit through printing. The best way to reach these extraordinary heights is to print, exhibit and preserve your works of art up to 13" x 19" with the Pro9500 Mark II Inkjet Photo Printer.

The revered 10-full colour pigment LUCIA Ink system includes gray, black and matte black inks that collectively produce monochrome photographs of unrivaled quality when using the professional finish and texture of Canon Fine Art Photo Papers. These genuine Canon papers combined with LUCIA Inks provide phenomenal photo vividness and longevity. This power is fully utilized with the all-new Ambient Light Correction1 feature, improved functionality within Easy-PhotoPrint Pro plug-in software2 and two separate paper paths, including a front feeder for heavyweight paper types.

Scott Kelby Worldwide Photowalk, October 2011: Lens and Shutter

2011-07-27T13:38:00.000-07:00

This years Worldwide Photowalk has been penciled in to be on October 1st or 2nd, 2011. Staff from Lens & Shutter Abbotsford will be organizing and attending a walk somewhere in Abbotsford. Its more of a fun social event where people can come and maybe learn new techniques, so dont be scared that its a bunch of experienced photographers walking around with fancy equipment. The more the merrier!!!

Here is a link for new "Walkers"!!!

Lets get out there and click some shutters!

Firmware Update: Canon EOS 60D: Lens and Shutter

2011-07-22T10:00:00.000-07:00

Canon just introduced a minor update for the wonderful Canon EOS 60D.
Update here

Here are the Specifications of the Update
Changes:

Firmware Version 1.1.0 incorporates the following fixes and improvements.

1. Fixes a phenomenon where the wireless built-in flash settings are reset to defaults when the battery is removed from the camera.

2. Fixes an intermittent phenomenon where image-rotation information is not recognized correctly when shooting with the camera in the vertical position depending on the timing of the shutter release.

Firmware Version 1.1.0 is for cameras with firmware up to Version 1.0.9. If the camera's firmware is already Version 1.1.0, it is not necessary to update the firmware.

Q&A Section:

Preparations for the Firmware Update:

After the downloaded compressed file (zip file) is extracted, a firmware folder is created.

*Extracting the downloaded file:

Right-click the zip file, and then select Extract All to extract the file.

The extracted folder contains the firmware (file name: 60D00110.FIR / file size: 11,601,180 bytes) and instructions on the firmware update procedures (a PDF file in five languages: Japanese, English, French, Spanish, and Simplified Chinese). Before starting the firmware update operations, please be sure to confirm the contents of the download and carefully read through the firmware update procedures.

Q: What are some changes in Firmware Version 1.1.0?

A: The following fixes have been incorporated.

1. Fixes a phenomenon where the wireless built-in flash settings are reset to defaults when the battery is removed from the camera.

2. Fixes an intermittent phenomenon where image-rotation information is not recognized correctly when shooting with the camera in the vertical position depending on the timing of the shutter release.

(The following is the history of past firmware updates.)

Q: Are the previous versions of firmware included in version 1.1.0?

A: Yes, the following improvements from the previous versions are included:.

Changes in Version 1.0.9:

1. Changes the name of the feature called "Art Filters" to "Creative Filters" (which is used in markets other than Japan) in the Japanese version to make the terms consistent. (This change only applies to the Japanese version and does not apply to other language versions.)

(*The following explanation is only for CMJ.)

In addition, accompanying this firmware update, please also update the applications listed below. After the applications are updated, "Creative Filters", rather than "Art Filters", will be displayed.

-Digital Photo Professional / EOS Utility / ZoomBrowser EX / ImageBrowser

2. Fixes a phenomenon where the camera may operate abnormally when it is set to Quick Mode AF during Live View shooting immediately after capturing an image with the C.Fn II-1 Long exposure noise reduction setting set to [2: On] and a shutter speed setting of 5 seconds or more.

3. Fixes a phenomenon where the camera may operate abnormally when after Live View shooting, the remote switch on the EOS Utility screen is pressed to immediately start movie-shooting. This phenomenon only occurs when the camera is connected to a compatible personal computer and the Remote Live View function of EOS Utility software is being used.

Changes in Version 1.0.8:

1. Fixes a phenomenon that captured images may become overexposed when using the camera's built-in flash or an external Speedlite in combination with the lenses listed below.

a) EF300/4 L IS USM

b) EF28-135/3.5-5.6 IS USM

c) EF75-300/4-5.6 IS USM

d) EF100-400/4.5-5.6 L IS USM

Waynes Tips: How to use( or not use) your Flash more effectively.

2011-07-21T19:03:00.000-07:00

#4-How to To Use(or Not Use) Your Flash More Effectively

Virtually all digital cameras have a built in flash. My experience here tells me that the vast majority of these cameras have been left set on the default flash settings. While these usually work well, it is important to know when to override them.
The flash control setting for almost all cameras is designated by a small lightning bolt-like icon. The readout for which mode you are using will usually appear on the display on the back of your camera.
Most users leave the camera on the Auto setting. On most cameras this is designated by the letter "A" or "Auto". In some cases by not showing anything at all when in this mode. Check your camera manual to be sure.

In this mode the camera will decide to use the flash when needed. Most often this will happen when the light levels would require a shutter speed too slow for you to safely handhold. On some cameras, the flash may also turn on when it senses the subject is lit from behind. This condition of backlighting was discussed in out last column.
However, the choice the camera makes on it's own is not always the best one. There are many situations, in fact, where the end result will be unsatisfactory. Let's discuss a few.

FORCED OFF (FLASH CANCEL)
First of all, flash range must be considered. The average point & shoot style camera has a maximum flash range of ten to twelve feet( about 3-4 meters for those advanced individuals who think in metric). This range is normally only reached with the zoom set to the widest angle of view. Using the closest setting on you zoom will usually drop the range by 20-40%.
So you can see some of the problems we run into. Have you ever noticed at some outdoor stadium nighttime event how many flashes you see going off in the stands? Most of these people are hundreds of feet away from their subjects, well beyond the range of the flash.
Here is what we should do in this kind of situation. Go to your flash controls and turn off the flash.

This is almost always designated by the flash symbol(lightning bolt) being covered by a circle with a diagonal line running through it.
What the camera does then is try to give you a good exposure using the existing light only. To do this the camera will need to slow the shutter down, often resulting in blurred pictures.
Use a tripod if you can. If you can't the following will help.
If you camera allows it, set the ISO to a higher number. ISO is a rating of how sensitive the sensor in your camera is to light. This setting is usually on Auto but can often be set manually. Put this on a high number like 400 or 800 and then the camera will use higher shutter speeds than normal resulting in less camera shake. Yes the quality of image will go down, but it is better to have an imperfect image than not at all.
Whether you use this setting or not, try to hold the camera extra steady. Do not jab the shutter button down but rather gently push in a slow and steady fashion.
Use the eye level finder (if your camera has one) rather than the LCD(Liquid Crystal Display) on the back of the camera. The camera is much steadier when held to the eye than at arms length.
If your camera has stabilization make sure that it is turned and set correctly.
Take a bunch of pictures. Do not be afraid to use the continuous or motor drive setting on your camera. You chance of getting a sharp picture is much improved when you do this. Remember, it does not cost you anything to shoot a lot and throw away the duds later.
Using these tips also apply to flash pictures around the home. On telephoto a typical digital camera has a range of six to seven feet. Pictures too dark? Either turn the flash off as above or do the following: Get closer or use a wider angle setting because this will increase the flash range.
Besides exposure problems, there are other reasons not to use flash. Continuing to take candid pictures will obviously be better without the flash drawing attention to you. Also the atmosphere of a scene would often be spoiled by the harsh light of a flash. Even if the flash could illuminate a city scene at dusk for example, could you imagine how harsh and unreal it would look?
But someone out there is going to say I used my flash at night at long range and it worked. Not really. What happened is that the existing or ambient light in the scene just happened to be bright enough to get a decent exposure.
Another reason not to use flash is this. No matter how powerful the flash, only one distance can be properly exposed. For example if you stand at the end of a long table and take a flash picture of people sitting at it something like this will happen: the people closest to you will be washed out, the people in the middle well exposed, and the people at the far end will be too dark. With an on-camera flash you will always have this problem. Turning the flash off may help. It is worth a try.
Last but not least, they may simply not let you use flash in a museum or similar place.
So be brave! Turn off the flash and shoot away.

FORCED ON
Another way to override the Auto flash mode is to force the flash on.
Here is an example why you would do this. You are sitting outside across the table from a friend on a bright sunny day. Above you is a big umbrella keeping the hot sun away while you enjoy lunch. You want to take a picture of your friend but you see the sunlit background is much brighter than the light on your friend's face. If you expose for the face the background will be washed out. If you expose for the background the face will be too dark. Most cameras left to their own devices would leave the face too dark. So what to do?
Go to the flash control and force the flash on

Most often this is shown by the lightning bolt symbol unaccompanied by the "A"
What results is that the camera will fill the shadows in with the flash but try to leave the background as it was. The result is a much more evenly lit scene with fewer overly light or dark areas.
This technique, understandably, is called fill-in flash.
Don't be afraid to use this mode, even though some might think it strange to use flash in bright light.

SLOW SPEED
A useful flash mode that use combines elements from both these settings is the slow-speed sync mode.

Usually this symbol incorporates the flash icon and a person with the moon or a star behind him. Sometimes it will appear as the flsh symbol with the word slow beside it.
This mode is good for a situation like this one. You are walking along the beach at sunset and decide to take a flash picture of your friend with the beautifully coloured sky behind. The sun is already down, so the sky while intensely coloured, is not very bright. If you just leave the camera on the Auto mode and take a flash picture your subject will be properly exposed. However the background will likely be dark with little detail.
The slow speed sync mode will do this: The flash will fire to expose the person but then the camera will leave the shutter open for a longer period than normal in order to let the light in the scene expose the background. So now you have a well exposed shot of the person where you can also see the attractive background.
The danger with this mode is that the shutter speed needed may be very slow. Blurring from camera shake may be very evident, so try to hold the camera very steady, use you stabilizer(if you have one) or use a tripod. Because of blurry photo danger, this setting is not turned on by default.
This mode is useful for any situation where you want a poorly background to show up when using the flash. It really does help, so give it a try!

RED-EYE
The last setting to discuss is the red-eye reduction mode. This setting usually shows the flash icon and a "eye" icon together.

This can usually be set in conjunction with the Auto, Forced, or Slow Sync flash modes we talked about earlier.
Anytime you have the flash close to the lens, as almost all point & shoot cameras do, you will have those annoying red spots in peoples eyes. This flash mode helps the problem by using a light or flash bursts prior to exposure. This forces the pupil in the eye to contract therefore reducing the severity of the red-eye.
The problem is that is do not always work as well as we would like. Some people's retinas are very reflective. As far as red-eye problems go, blue eyed blond children are the worst case scenario.
Also the time to take the picture is lengthened because the camera is doing the pre-flashes, etc. Your chances of being candid are just about gone as well.
If this mode does not work or you don't want to use it, there are a few things you can do.
Don't use the flash at all. However, do keep the warnings we talked about earlier, in mind
Another method is get closer to your subject. When you reach a certain distance the red-eye will often go away. For most point & shoot digital cameras this would be a maximum of three to five feet away.
Use a bigger add-on flash if your camera is able to do so. This will increase the working distance before red-eye reoccurs.
I have saved the best tip for last. One of the great things about digital is the ability to get rid of those red-eyes later.
Many cameras will do this automatically.
As well, many image editing programs included with digital cameras make it easy to do this. Check your help files to see if yours does. If not, try Kodak's Easyshare software or Picasa from Google. At last check both of these programs are freely available. Use a search engine and you should be able to find what website makes them available. If you have a Nikon Coolpix, their Picture Project software works very easily and very well.
To sum up, use the flash modes your camera offers. Try some of the tips I have mentioned, and I am sure you will find many of your pictures will improve.
And remember it does not cost you any money to find out want works best for you!
Next time I will talk about the white balance settings, what they do and how to use them.

Lexar Memory Cards : Lens and Shutter

2011-07-21T18:15:00.000-07:00

Every day we get questions about memory cards and their reliability/compatibility. So here's a video that shows what Lexar does to improve their cards and ensure customers get the best, most reliable product.

New Lens:Nikon AF-S DX 40mm F2.8G Micro: Lens and Shutter

2011-07-20T11:51:00.000-07:00

During my Vacation Nikon decided to announce a Brand New Macro Lens for any DX Users, It's a great price for people who want to get into some nice Macro...Suggested Retail is $299!!!! Great Price!
Click here for Nikon's Spec's etc..

New Summer Ad: Lens and Shutter

2011-07-20T10:57:00.000-07:00

Here is our Newest Ad which Runs only until July 24th... I guess I shouldn't go on holiday!!

Neutral Density Filters : Lens and Shutter

2011-07-01T11:18:00.000-07:00

It's that time of the year folks, bright, lush blue sky's along with gorgeous tree covered mountains with hints of snow still left on some.
It is a very challenging time for cameras and correct exposures. With so many variences in the landscape and the sky, it makes it very hard to correctly expose an even exposure, most result in over exposing the sky and losing detail or exposing for the sky and creating an extremely dark landscape!!
For a long time photographers have relied on Neutral Density Filters to aid this challenging scenario. Despite the digital age and the fact we can often resolve some of this issue via editing, the need for Neutral Density filters is very much present as their is still far too many scenario's when detail is lost due to over exposure which cannot be recovered.
For example, in the shot below, I have lost far too much Cloud detail in the top right hand side. This is common with nearly all cameras, with only a select few which can handle this much highlight range. Sadly, I don't have one of them!!

Here is the shot below utilizing a 3 stop ( ND 8) graduated Cokin Filter. As you can see all of the detail in the cloud, on the top right, has been saved and now should I wish to edit the shot I have detail to work with!

The two Neutral Density Filters that can be found are a Graduated filter and Non Graduated...simple. The Grad style is a clear to dense( up to ND 8) and the Non Grad is a completely dense filter.

Most use the Non-Grad for waterfall shots and showing movement shots as per my previous post examples using Nikon's Coolpix P7000.

Anyways since I only own Graduated I will be showing you these samples unless I can borrow some samples from the net for you!!!

Here is my first filtered shot, with my least powered Grad ND2

Then I replaced the ND 2 for my ND 8 below

Then I stacked my ND2 and ND 8 to combine to make an ND12

The system I currently use has a stacking system available so you can use up to three different filters at one time very conveniently.....

Here is one scenario I used the ND 2 filter upside and the ND 8 for the sky and cleverly positioned the "Clear" parts of the filters for the centre of the shot allowing the camera to evenly expose the entire scene for the right hand side image, I did the reverse for the left hand side image to help pronounce the reflection detail( these were shot with film so no editing has been done).

ND 8 Grad below(Shot with Nikon F5, 28mm 2.8, Kodak Ektar 100 iso....!)

On this one I used them opposite again but i really tried to make the sky look as dramatic as I could... Shot with Nikon F5, 28mm 2.8, Kodak Ektar 100 iso....!

Neutral Density Filters range in price depending on Lens Size, basically the smallest NON Grad/ Grad starts at about $40 and really you can go a great more expensive should you wish...

Another similar filter that shares common factors is a Polarizing Filter which I will look at another day!

New Olympus Pen Camera's: Lens and Shutter

2011-06-30T07:36:00.000-07:00

Some new movement by Olympus...
Click to see the new E-P3
Click to see the new E-PL3
Click to see the new E-PM1

Lifepics App: Photofinishing: Lens and Shutter

2011-06-26T15:03:00.000-07:00

Its now super easy for you to get Images from your wireless devices such as Phones or Tablets into print form for a frame or your photo album.

The APPS are available for several platforms and you can download the APP here.
The prints can be delivered to your home or you can pickup from your nearest Lens & Shutter, you can also purchase Lifepics Prepaid Cards making the prints as low as 19cents each when you order a 500 quantity print card.
Please note that this APP is simply an upload system to your online lifepics account, you can actually complete the order via your normal household computer.

Firmware Update: Nikon Coolpix P500: Lens and Shutter

2011-06-25T13:37:00.000-07:00

Nikon posted an update for the Nikon Coolpix P500. Here it is!

Here are the suggested fixes!!!

When a fully charged battery was inserted in the camera, the camera used and then turned off and left for a while, in some rare cases the battery was exhausted and the camera could not be turned on again. This issue has been resolved.
In some rare cases, the monitor failed to properly display images with continuous shooting at a setting of Continuous L. This issue has been resolved.
When the following SD memory cards were inserted into the camera and the camera turned on, the “This card cannot be used.” message was sometimes displayed. This issue has been resolved.
- SanDisk Extreme Pro SDHC UHS-I (32 GB, 16 GB, 8 GB)
- SanDisk Extreme SDHC UHS-I (32 GB, 16 GB, 8 GB, 4 GB)
An issue that caused settings registered using the Save user settings option to be reset when camera settings were reset using the Reset all option in the setup menu with [U] (user setting) shooting mode enabled has been resolved.

Firmware Update: Fuji Finepix X100:Lens and Shutter

2011-06-24T17:36:00.000-07:00

Attention all you lucky Fuji X100 owners, They have just announced another update resolving a few of their customers requests!!!! Get it here!

The firmware update ver.1.10 incorporates the improvement against inadequate operation shown in the following.

1. The following functions can be rocked during shooting by holding down [MENU/OK] button over 3 sec. DRIVE/Flash/White balance/Macro (set on the Command Dial – 4 direction key)
2. “CORRECTED AF FRAME” menu is added in “SET-UP” menu (the last line on menu page 6) to display additional AF frame (corrected AF frame for reducing parallax) which can be effectively used for macro shots. (Factory default value is set to “OFF”)

3. Adjustment in1/3 step increment for shutter speed or aperture setting is enabled in Shutter-PriorityAE and Aperture-Priority AE mode, on top of those in Manual Exposure mode. Shutter-Priority AE: Adjustment is controlled by rotating the command dial Aperture-Priority AE: Adjustment is controlled by moving left/right on the command control lever
4. In the post-view mode (display after shooting), focused area is magnified in the LCD (EVF) display when the command control lever is pressed.Cf. “IMAGE DISP.” Setting must be set to “CONTINUOUS”
5. Setting of the role for “Fn” button is enabled by holding down “Fn” button over 3 sec.
6. Actual ISO sensitivity for shooting is displayed just after pressing shutter button halfway, when “ISO AUTO CONTROLL” is set to ON.
7. When “eye sensor” is activated by pressing “VIEW MODE” button, “EYE SENSOR” is displayed on EVF/OVF or LCD just a while to notice the status.
8. Macro mode ISO sensitivity, Drive mode, Dynamic range, Self-timer mode, flash mode is maintained even if shutter speed setting or aperture setting is changed. Also, even after changing viewing mode into shooting mode or turning of the camera, these values are maintained.
9. The size of focus frame set through viewing EVF/LCD is maintained even after changing display mode between OVF and EVF(LCD).
10. When “SHUTTER SOUND” is chosen, each shutter sound is performed in each menu selling
11. In viewing mode, the last viewed shot is maintained as even after changing into shooting mode Cf. After another image is shot after viewing former image, memory of viewing the image is cancelled and the last shot is displayed as the latest image.
12. When the aspect ration of the image size is set to 16:9, the line of bright frame line on OVF is displayed with aspect ratio 16:9.
13. Viewing mode with Photo Information on EVF/LCD is maintained even if another image is shot. On top of this issue, deleting picture directly is enabled even in viewing with Photo information by pressing the command dial up, or MENU operation is also enabled.
14. Occasionally, preview image on EVF/LCD after pressing the shutter halfway might be darker than live view, according to aperture setting or brightness of shooting target. This phenomenon is improved.
15. When “DISP. CUSTOM SETTING” is set to OVF or EVF/LCD, the setting value is maintained even after customizing the menu.
16. Even for only RAW data recording mode, “RED EYE REMOVAL” setting is selectable among ON or OFF.

The firmware update ver.1.01 incorporates the improvement against inadequate operation shown in the following.

If the images are shot with ISO Bracketing mode when "QUICK START MODE"(*1) is set to "ON" and turn off the camera,the camera cannot be turned on again even with ordinary operation.

*1 Menu of "QUICK START MODE" is set to "OFF" as factory-default value.
Products Supported:
FinePix X100

Waynes Tips #3: Exposure: Lens and Shutter

2011-06-24T17:32:00.000-07:00

#3-How to Deal With Exposure Problems

The first thing to remember is this; No matter what they tell you, your camera is a stupid, stupid hunk of metal and plastic.
Yes, I will admit they are smarter then they used to be. However, that still does not make them truly intelligent.

Where, when, and why do these cameras make mistakes? And how do we deal with them?
First we must understand how the exposure system thinks. Basically all exposure systems are designed to give you a good result if the subject you are shooting reflects around 18% of the light that falls upon it.
Why this seemingly arbitrary number? A long time ago it was determined that the average scene reflected about 18% of the light. That is take the bright, medium, and dark areas and average them out, and you arrive at this figure.
Hows does this affect the way a camera deals with scenes that are not close to this ideal? When the camera sees a scene covered in snow it says something like this to itself:"Wow, this 18% reflective scene sure has a lot of light reflecting from it. I am going to set the shutter speed really fast and make the opening in the lens small." What is the result? The snow comes out too dark, gray instead of white. If the subject is very dark the opposite would occur and your scene would look too light.
This is one situation where the camera's limitations show up. It does not know you have a non-average scene in front of it.

How do we deal with it?
Almost every digital camera has a setting known as exposure compensation. This setting is usually expressed as + and - numbers. So when you see the picture on the display of your camera is too dark or too light, do this: stop and take another picture after using this setting. If the picture is too dark, use the + numbers to add light to the shot. If it is too light, use the - numbers. How much to set depends on the scene, so you may need to try a few settings to get the exposure you want.
The symbol usually used and range of compensation is shown below.

The beauty of digital is that you know right away the picture did not turn out and it does not cost you anything but some time to get it right.
High contrast light situations also fool cameras. This is one area where there has been significant improvement over the past few years. Nonetheless, there will still be many situations where the camera will make the wrong decision.
An example of high contrast is what is known as backlight, that is when the light behind your subject is much stronger than the light falling on the front of your subject. This usually results in your subject being too dark or a silhouette. Often this happens when your subject stands with a brightly lit window behind them
How can we deal with this? There are a few ways.
1. Use the exposure compensation. Use the + numbers to add light.
2. If it is a picture of a person, you can force your camera to use the flash to fill in the dark areas. This is know as fill-in flash, which will be discussed in more detail in a later column.
3. If your camera allows it, you can change the way the light meter in your camera reads the scene. This would tell the camera to read only a small portion of your scene and thus ignore the parts which cause the camera to error. This function, often called a spot meter, again will be discussed later in more detail
Another situation you can run into would be something like this: Your friend is standing in a pool of sunlight in the forest. The shaded background is very dark. This can be referred to as front lighting, the exact opposite of the above. Here your subject would be too light or washed out.
Here are two ways to deal with this.
1. Use the exposure compensation but this time set it to the - numbers.
2. Use the spot meter as described in the 3rd. point above.
Certainly there are other ways to deal with difficult situations beyond those mentioned here. One is is to use manual exposure, if your camera has that setting. I will discuss this mode more in a future column. Another way is to use software which can often correct exposure errors to a point. However this can often lead to loss of detail in shadows and highlights along with other problems. But do not give up on an image if it has potential. Many things can be done to salvage it to a degree.
In the end it is still best to get it right in the camera. So use the settings we have discussed and you will be happier when those difficult subjects come up.
Next time I will talk about flash settings and how to use them.

Pentax Q, Mirrorless Camera!!! Lens and Shutter

2011-06-23T15:44:00.000-07:00

It seems that Pentax have now joined the "Interchangable Lens Camera" world, called the Pentax Q!
Here are the specs!! So exciting, and It is ridiculously small. Good things come in small packages!

Here is the Blurb on the Pentax Site.

World's Smallest and Lightest Interchangeable Lens Digital Camera
The Q represents an evolution in interchangeable lens digital camera design, featuring the world’s smallest and lightest body. Experience the PENTAX Q. The Camera. Evolved.
Q-Mount Lens System The Q features the newly designed PENTAX Q-mount lens system for convenient interchangeability with a variety of specialty Q lenses. Choose from a selection of prime, zoom, fisheye lenses, and more to suit just about any photographic need. The Q system will be available in a standard kit that includes the 8.5mm lens (equivalent to 47mm).
12.4 Megapixels
Enjoy exceptional image quality in 12.4 megapixels courtesy of the Q’s 1/2.3 inch backlit CMOS image sensor.
Capable of producing 12 bit DNG RAW and JPG images, the backlit CMOS sensor is a highly efficient light-gathering instrument designed specifically to produce very low noise at high levels of sensitivity.
Durable
Though extremely compact, the Q is also surprisingly durable, sporting lightweight, scratch resistant magnesium alloy body.
Traditional DSLR Shooting Modes
Experienced photographers will enjoy the power and flexibility of traditional DSLR shooting modes such as Program, Aperture/Shutter Priority, and Metered Manual exposure control. Yet casual shooters will appreciate the highly convenient automatic modes such as the set-it-and-forget-it PENTAX Auto Picture and 21 scene modes.
Customizable Quick Dial
Conveniently choose from a variety of creative modes, Smart Effect options, or camera settings to assign to the Q’s Quick Dial located on the front of the camera. Easily customize the setting or effect using the Quick Dial’s 4 positions, allowing you to concentrate on photography without having to explore the camera’s menu system.
HDR Capture
In-camera HDR capture mode shoots 3 images of varying exposures, blending them to bring out the details in even the darkest shadows and brightest highlights of extreme contrast shots.
1080p HD Video
Shoot high quality motion video with stunning full 1080p HD clarity at 30 frames per second. The Q efficiently processes the full HD video using high quality h.264 compression for superior color and detail. Explore creative video effects through the use of custom image modes, digital video filters, and interval shooting; or select from a variety of Q lenses to realize your perfect artistic vision.
Sensor-Shift Shake Reduction
Capture stabilized, blur and dust free images even in low lighting courtesy of the Q’s sensor-shift Shake Reduction system with integrated DRII Dust Reduction. Body-based Shake Reduction operates independently of the Q’s lenses, allowing the same level of stabilization regardless of lens selection.
3 Inch LCD Monitor
Easily capture or review images and video using the Q’s large 3 inch LCD monitor. The high quality LCD features HVGA resolution with 460,000 dots, as well as viewing angles up to 170 degrees horizontally and vertically.
5 FPS
Capture even the fastest action with a 5 frames per second continuous shooting mode, ideal for sporting events, children at play, or any fast action situation.
Bokeh Control Filter
Enjoy effortless bokeh control with the Q’s bokeh control filter. Traditionally controlled through a DSLR lens’s aperture, bokeh is the out of focus part of the background that helps to emphasize the subject, drawing the viewer’s eyes to the most important part of the photo. The Q assists the experienced and casual photographer alike by offering a fine degree of extra control over image bokeh via an in-camera filter operation.
Smart Effects Mode
New Smart Effects modes enhance digital photography by applying a series of effects to images to achieve high quality finishing. Brilliant Color, Vintage Color, Warm Fade, Bold Monochrome, and Water Color are just some of the Smart Effects available, which can also be assigned to the Q’s Quick Dial.
USER Modes For Creativity
Powerful USER modes allow the creative photographer to save a series of favorite camera settings, filters, and custom image modes for instant reuse.
1/2000 to 30 Second Shutter Speeds
Shutter speeds range from 1/2000 to 30 seconds, perfect for freezing fast action or capturing long nighttime exposures. Bulb mode adds flexibility for low light photography and motion effects.
Built-In Popup Flash
The Q’s built-in popup flash adds the perfect amount of extra light to an image, while its high extension naturally reduces the redeye effect common to compact cameras. The Q’s flash is effective to 23 feet at 200 ISO, and covers a wide angle 28 degree field of view.
HDMI Port
A built-in micro HDMI port is perfect for outputting high resolution images and video, with sound, to modern HDTVs.
SD, SDHC, and SDXC Memorey Cards
The Q is compatible with the latest generation SD, SDHC, and SDXC memory cards for ultra-high capacity storage as well as outstanding image file portability.
RAW File Processing
The Q includes SILKYPIX Developer Studio 3 software for powerful and flexible RAW file processing. In-camera RAW image development is also supported.
External Viewfinder Available Separately
Compose images and video either with the Q’s LCD monitor or using a shoe-mounted viewfinder attachment available as an optional accessory. The External Viewfinder O-VF1 makes an excellent accessory to the Q, offering outstanding compositional framing, even in the brightest sunlight where viewing an LCD screen is traditionally a challenge.

Sizzling Summer Sale: Lens and Shutter

2011-06-23T12:42:00.000-07:00

Our new flyer is out!!! Yipppeeee Sale ends July 17th, 2011

Firmware Update: Pentax Canada: Lens and Shutter

2011-06-22T10:15:00.000-07:00

Looks like some new updates for several Cameras for Pentax...
Pentax K5 Update
Pentax K-r Update
Pentax 645 D Update

Nikon Coolpix P7000 Review: Lens and Shutter

2011-06-22T10:06:00.000-07:00

Nikon's newest little triumph is the Nikon Coolpix P7000. A compact camera with the heart of a DSLR. For me this was an extremely cool little camera. Firstly, I love the layout. Many quick options to hand and a few function buttons which are customizable to enable a few nifty features and have them ready at a moments notice such as the built in ND filter and the RAW/Jpeg function.

The Specs are here and I am sure you techy types will have fun purring over it.
Whom is this camera for? why is there so many buttons and dials? what does it all mean??

This camera does have all of the wonderful little auto modes and scene modes that most of the compacts have in the market. So why do I need all the dials and buttons? These are for people who want to have a little quicker access to certain features and not be bothered by going into the menu each time to locate them, which is primarily the same ergonomic feature that most DSLR's present.
Whom is this camera for? It's for everybody. People who want a solid built compact camera who desperately need the optical viewfinder and also for a photographer who needs lots of control even just for his everyday shooting without dragging along his heavy DSLR (Me, Myself and I)!!
So my first little snippet is the Raw feature. What is Raw? Raw is the "digital negative" the camera initially records when capturing the shot, a file that is not processed by the computer on board, thus leaving the choice to the photographer at a later date. Why would one want this? Well... quite often cameras can get it wrong, especially the white balance, where the camera has multiple light sources ranging from different colour temperatures (colour temperatures) blah blah blah...anyways, this camera like all DSLR's has an ability to take care of colour after the fact, although its not a nikon NEF file (the same as there DSLR's), rather an NRW file which isn't as impressive but more than useable!

As I have said before, I am not editing these images on a computer, I am merely downsizing for the Blog. This image I was able to edit in the camera.... yes! I said in the camera!
Because of the wide capability of the nikon NRW file I was able to manipulate the contrast, colour, saturation and exposure in-camera to give you these to different images on the same file!

Now they are similar but the subtle changes in-camera make the 2nd of the two images more impact-full.

This tree shot was edited from Raw down to a contrasty Black & White shot.... There is also the ability to produce nice Sepia toned images in-camera too!!!!

Now all of these images could have been edited in Nikon's Free program View NX2 under a more controlled environment with a computer screen but that would take some of the fun out of creating the image right at the time!!
Another treat that they have added to this camera and many other models is a program called D-Lighting, and little add-on that takes a little look at contrast and low light areas and tries to enhance the image to give the optimal image detail.
Here are a couple samples, again ones I had shot in Raw and then converted in camera with D-Lighting added to the file!

D-Lighting shot is on the right handside.

and now D-Lighting is on the left hand side for the snail shots. You can clearly see the improvement in the low light areas. These two were two different shots both shot in jpeg, and one with D-lighting activated.
Anyways, here is a random selection of different shots, some at high ISO and some that I thought the camera did a great job!

Not that I enjoy or promote cigarette smoking, or defacing walls but this joker put a smile on my face!

The above shot with 1600 ISO and the below shot with 400 ISO

Here is a sample of the 7x optical Zoom (28-200mm equivelant)

The FULL Zoom shot (200mm) followed by the WIDE Zoom shot ( 28mm)

Once again amazing Macro on this model which you can also do with Manual focus.... Manual Focus, wonderful!

Here is a sample of the detail from the Macro... I actually spotted this little piece of fluff or whatever its was by accident as I was shooting the texture of the counter top.... It was right next to my index finger showing you the potential detail capabilities!

Again a "with" flash and "without" flash scenario!!!

For me one of the most interesting feature is the cameras built-in Neutral Density filter. I had this filter to active from one of the function buttons, which happened to be the AV/TV button on the top right of the camera. What why you want neutral density? Most commonly photographers use Neutral Density filters to darken down an image where they have too much light. For example when they are around really bright scenes such and waterfalls or beaches.... I happened to use the neutral density for a couple other creative features.

On my cycle home I stopped on the bridge over a by-pass and did two shots. The camera was resting on the bridge rail so as not to get camera shake as it was a lower light shot. the first shot was somewhere around a 6th of a second and the second shot was about a 2 seconds if my memory serves me correctly. As you can see the effect clearly, the cars are more trailed on the second shot, creating a splendid movement effect!

So basically the ND filter is a good tool for helping the photographer add some useful movement within an image

So here is an image that I got lucky on and caught a busy bee in my shot, I just cropped into the file to shot you some of the detail I had!! The bee is in the left hand image on the top left hand side of the flower.

One other key feature this camera has from a photographers point of view is the ability to add a flash to this camera, yes it has a built in flash but often us photographers want more!!!!
As suggested in my previous post "Mystery Camera" this Nikon has the ability to delve into the world of Nikon wireless flash which is a fun fun time if your a sad photo-geek like me!

Here is a shot of Akeem, my wonderful model, in the store using a remote triggered flash in a new Umbrella ( Velbon UC-6) product we have which is "raining" the light onto him. The Nikon Wireless CLS can be utilised using a Nikon SB900 or Nikon SB700 on camera as the Commanader and that can then trigger a Nikon SB900. SB 700 or SB 600 Off Camera as Slaves, You dont have the full CLS channels available as you would a DSLR....
So all in all one of my new favourite camera's, here's hoping that it will be under my Christmas Tree!!!

Lowepro Bag: Passport Sling: Lens and Shutter

2011-06-16T15:14:00.000-07:00

We just recieved today a New Bag by Lowepro called the Passport Sling, Perfect for a nice little DSLR with Lens and an additional Lens of maybe a flash perhaps. It also has a nice expanding system so it could facilitate extra storage of your "everyday" items ( Wallet, phone, keys, water bottle, sandwich and whatever other things you might need to carry).

Colour we have currently are Black and Brown and its listed at $29.99... Looks like a decent everday kind of bag!

Catch the Action Ad: Lens and Shutter

2011-06-09T12:31:00.000-07:00

Here is a the newest Ad for Lens and Shutter Cameras
The Sale ends June 19th, 2011

Waynes Tips, Resolution & Compression: Lens and Shutter

2011-06-09T09:23:00.000-07:00

#2-Resolution and Compression

Two of the most important settings on digital cameras but also two of the most misunderstood.

In order to know how to use these controls, we need to pause for a moment in order to understand what they are.

First of all, let's consider resolution.

Cameras are are spoken of as having so many pixels or megapixels (millions of pixels). These numbers are arrived by by multiplying the pixel dimensions of the sensor just like we calculate the square footage of a floor.

For example: 2,000 pixels x 3,000 pixels=6,000,000 pixels or 6 megapixels.

But what are pixels? First of all, the word itself is a shortened form of the phrase PICture ELement(Don't ask me where X came from. I assume Pixel would sound better the Picel.)

Pixels are the red, green and blue dots on the image sensor of your camera. This sensor, most often a CCD(Charge Coupled Device) is what takes the place of film in a digital camera. The light from the lens strikes these pixels and is converted by the camera into an image.

Very often we are told that the more pixels you have the better the quality picture you will have. This statement , in my opinion, is at the very least incomplete if not somewhat inaccurate.

The better statement is that the amount of pixels will strongly affect how big you can make the image either on screen or print before that image noticeably deteriorates. If you enlarge the image too much the pixels themselves become so large they will affect the sharpness of lines and edges and thereby making you image look less sharp.

Computers screens are low resolution when compared to prints. So it is in printing the image that you first reach the limits of the camera's pixel count.

Our experience here tells us that on a 4x6" print it is almost impossible to tell a 3mp (megapixel) image from a 8mp image.

So how big of a print can you make with different resolutions?

The following figures may be helpful.

2mp Camera 4x6"
3mp Camera 5x7"
4mp Camera 8x10"
5mp Camera 11x14"
6mp Camera 13x18"
8mp Camera 16X20"

These figures, as are all issues relating to quality, somewhat subjective. You may feel you can go up one size or have to go down one size to get results you want. Remember also that using only a portion of your image to make the print is like making a larger print as well.

The size of the image file goes up when the resolution goes up, thus affecting how many pictures your memory card can hold.

Now, let's consider compression.

The image format that most cameras record is known as a JPEG(Joint Photographic Experts Group) or JPG.

This is what is known as a compressed image. What that means is that the camera when writing the file is able to reduce it's overall size so that more images fit on your memory card.

How does this happen? The camera looks at the image and kind of says something like this: "This area of sky is the same colour and appearance. So what I will do is use just one pixel instead of ten to represent the area that is bounded by these coordinates." Therefore the file size is reduced. When you look at the image on the computer or camera, it restores all the pixels back to the original number.

On my old 3mp camera the size of the JPEG was about 1.5 megabytes as stored on the memory card. When brought back to full size on the computer it is about 9 megabytes.On most cameras you can vary the level of compression used thereby affecting the size of the file and how many pictures your memory card can hold. Often this variability is stated as good, better, best or basic, normal, fine on the image quality menu.

If you compress the image too much the camera makes less distinctions between subtle differences in the image's colours and detail. The image quality will suffer.
Other Formats
On some cameras it is possible to set the camera to shoot uncompressed images such as a TIFF(Tagged Image File Format) or TIF. This does produce better quality. However, unless the print size is large the differences may be hard to see when comparing this format to a high quality JPEG. Also the file size is quite large.

On some cameras such as DSLRs and a few advanced point & shoot models you can use a format know as RAW. Unlike almost all other digital terms this is not an acronym. It simply means raw unprocessed data as it comes from the sensor.

This format has no compression artifacts. Unlike JPGs or TIFs the colour balance is not processed by the camera. This makes it much easier to adjust colour later on.

As well it is often possible to recover data lost in the highlights of JPGs.

RAW does require special software to handle the files. Also these images must be saved in another format(usually JPG or TIF)before they can be printed or even viewed in some programs. The files while large are much smaller than TIFs.

So what settings should you make on your camera?

If you are using a typical Point & Shoot camera I believe the following to be best:
Use a high resolution, low compression JPEG.

In other words set your camera to the largest numbers of pixels you can and set the compression or quality setting to fine or best. (Or whatever term your camera uses to describe this).

When shooting digital images the dilemma we face is not always knowing what we will want to do with the image. We may say all I want it for is to e-mail, however while using a this lower quality setting I happen to take a great photo, one I would like to print. But then the quality is not good enough.

Remember, it is always easy to remove information if you have too much but it is much more difficult to add information that is not there in the first place.

Most operating systems will allow you to easily downsize an image to e-mail it.

Therefore, there is really only one reason to shoot images at less then the maximum JPEG quality. You are running out of room on your memory card. However with memory card prices plunging this should not be nearly as big a problem as it used to be.

So shoot the best JPEG. Then whatever your needs are or become you will be happy with your pictures.

On the other hand for more advanced cameras and more advanced users I believe the best choice is to shoot RAW. I will discuss this format in more detail in a later column.

Next time I will discuss how to deal with exposure problems.

Firmware Update: Canon EOS 1D mark IV: Lens and Shutter

2011-06-01T16:25:00.000-07:00

Canon slipped out an update for there Flagship Model Canon EOS 1D mark IV. Download here

Canon Powershot S95 IS: Lens and Shutter

2011-05-30T20:23:00.000-07:00

The Canon Powershot S95 IS. This is a "Real Photographers" camera, heheheh, It has all the advanced features someone like myself desires in a very compact, well built little body (I like the Ring Function a lot).

Its not going to replace my DSLR by any shot but boy is it ever good for its size. Once again another Full Featured camera. The Canon S95 has a 3.8x optical zoom (28mm-105mm, very classic), it has HDR, Macro, Miniaturization (FUN), High Sensitivity HS, Vivid, Jpeg +Raw.... the list goes on but I wont bore you with SPECS because that's not my thing for this blog!!!
I just like getting straight to some images and hopefully they can inspire you into considering this camera as the camera for you!!!

An interesting technique which has become very popular in the last few years is HDR (High Dynamic Range). Many manufactures are now including this feature in-camera.... Some do it whilst you are shooting and some do it post shooting during editing. The Canon Powershot's do it whilst shooting... Here are two images shot at the same time etc.. one in HDR mode and the other shot in Program mode. Hopefully you can all see the change in the shot!

I always try to sneak in a little learning snippet with these entries... So this is my snippet!! Below, I have two shots of the same situation shot with the same settings in the same mode but with one thing changed on the camera to help change the result of the image.
Now this change is only really possible when your closer to the subject. The flash was the feature I added. with these compact cameras the ideal distance for the on-board flash is really 10ft-ish... If your subject is any further away the flash is unlikely to have much effect unless of course your ISO is set to a high setting...

Both are very acceptable images but I really wanted you to see the real pink that the tree had produced, the cloud and blue sky just adds to the richness of the shot.
So the lesson of the day is sometimes try using the flash to see what effect you can create in your shot! Also the previous Macro shot of the Dandelion was also used with flash. Had I not of used it the dandelion would have been extremely dark and almost silhouetted.....
Here again is a shot where both scenarios work and a lot of cameras would not flash in this situation so having control over it from time to time is a good option...

The New HS system seems to provide excellent low light shots within the parameters of these small sensors. Its quite remarkable what they have been able to achieve in a short space of time.

They have really been able to reduce the NOISE of the files and make the sensors react very much like how film grain would have produced.... so the image may not appear as sharp but you have a nice grain warmth to it.

The shot below was shot in my garage under terrible lighting but I also custom white balanced from my little white deep freezer that is there. As you can see the Auto is good but Custom gets it right, right out of the camera!!! It is worth the 3-5 seconds to do it and in a situation like that where the light source isn't changing I could have shot all day in there with the Custom Balance and all the images would have been amazingly consistent!

Here's just a few more pics I thought I would share.

These two are the fun "Miniature" mode.

As always all these shots have not been edited, only re-sized for the Blog so as to load faster for easier viewing.
Hopefully we'll see you shortly in one of our stores, or buy it Online

Firmware Update: Canon EOS 5D II: Lens and Shutter

2011-05-30T20:21:00.000-07:00

Apparently Canon released another Firmware Update ( Version 2.0.9) for the Canon EOS 5D II and its only listed on Canon USA, at this time! I am not too sure why the normal info sites didnt pick up on it yet!

Canon EOS 5D II

Ni-MH rechargable AA batteries: Panasonic: Lens and Shutter

2011-05-28T10:59:00.000-07:00

Have you ever purchased rechargeable batteries only to have them run out of power at the most critical moments? Everyone has. There are so many brands of AA batteries on the market that it can be difficult knowing which ones will be there for you when you need them the most. One brand that meets the standards of every photographer, amateur or professional, is Panasonic: their pre-charged Ni-MH AA batteries come ready-to-use out of the package. The batteries can be charged up to 1200 times and hold up to 80% of their capacity for an entire year when not in use.

Panasonic also added a New High Capacity Battery. With up to 2,450 mAh and over 100 charges, they are ideal of all high-drain electronics, such as speedlites, still cameras and video cameras.
Don't be disappointed anymore! Get the batteries that do the job!

Waynes Tips, Introduction: Lens and Shutter

2011-05-28T10:29:00.000-07:00

#1-Introduction

So you have a new digital camera.
Maybe you have had one for a while.
Either way, having the best photographic experience is important to you.
So perhaps you have asked yourself, "How do I use this new medium to get the shots that I want?"
These articles are being written in order to help you accomplish just that. I will try to explain the terms and acronyms that are used in ways that a beginner can understand. However the information contained will be able to help photographers of various skill levels.
This column will deal with our attitude towards digital cameras.
Later I will go into the specific controls and settings that can be used to improve your results.
So let's get into it!

#1 REMEMBER, YOUR CAMERA DOES NOT USE FILM.
Seems like an obvious statement does it not? Why even mention it?When talking with customers here, it is obvious that many are still using their digital cameras as if they were still using film.
I remember one incident that occurred last summer. A customer had a problem with their camera and needed to recover images that were on the memory card. It was mentioned some of the images were from Christmas about seven months past. In other words the customer had not downloaded pictures to the computer for this time period.
This is the same way many people used their film cameras, shooting only two to three rolls a year. Sometimes waiting many months to see the images.With film, every time you pressed the shutter it cost you money. Also, who likes the envelopes of unsatisfactory prints that inevitably accumulate?
I can understand this. I had a thought pattern similar to this when I first went from film to digital. I remember seeing a somewhat interesting scene in front of me and thinking: Should I take the shot or not? I then thought: Why worry about it? Take the shot. If it works, great. If not, it did not cost me anything.
Since that day my philosophy is this: Shoot lots of pictures whenever of whatever I find interesting to me. Then I take the camera home and download my images at the most a few days later. When I see them on the big screen they are much more exciting then seeing them on the camera's display. Also I can see what did and did not work. Then I learn from what did not.
To put it in simple terms:Take lots of pictures.Take your camera everywhere. Download you images quickly. Look at them and be excited about your successes and learn from your failures.
Have fun!
Next time we will talk about resolution and compression, two of the more important settings you need to make on your camera.